power booster Hi Evan, Photo or more info about this booster please. this is the first time I recall hearing about this. Thanks,
This is the "carrier assembly" aka spool. I called Patrick's and he confirmed. It has casting # 3652336 on the bolt head side.
Larry, Our host sells one: part # 71-903 for $325 (has picture). There are ones on ebay for as low as $165 but the Classic Parts one uses the factory mount and brake pedal. We have had good results with both.
Thanks Evan. I didn't realize it worked with drum/drum brakes, but thought it was for a front disc conversion. Looks like a great Christmas present!
CPP drum/drum brakes power booster . Hey Larry I do not want to kill your enthusiasm for this product but... Beware of the fact that this CPP (classic Performance Products ) power brake booster is not a snug fit although the quality is very good. Mine is still in the box one year later until the day comes i get a bright idea how i should install the unit to the 1950 chevy frame in a secure way! I have a converted saginaw 4 speed with floor stick wich makes it difficult to install. So check out the trucks spesifications well before ordering your booster. CPP has been misleading me as there customer selling there parts that wont fit You could look at the other option at Ebay . Maybe that booster is a better alternative as people here at the forum are recommending it quite often. It saves you for some money aswell. Good luck Martinius.
Brake Booster FWIW ; I recently added a vacuum power booster to the Bendix 11 X 2" brakes on my 1969 Chevy C/10 pickup . These are the same brakes as your 1951 > AD pickups use and my right leg's sciatic was making it difficult to stop the manual brakes . It works terrific , I can now lock up all four wheels with my toes . There are several " Hot Rod " power brake boosters that use a smaller diameter booster , I'd think that might be the simplest way to go here . Also remember : you can easily move the master cylinder rearwards until the booster has clearance and simply install a longer push rod . the factory did just this on some vehicles . Be sure to properly brace any master cylinder mount against flexing , a simple diagonal brace rear wards to the frame is sufficient . Also use a sturdy push rod so it cannot bend when that stupid cow in the Datsun pulls out in front of you and you literally stand up on the drake pedal . The Vacuum hose *must* be the correct stuff , not heater hose or any old hose you find lying around as vacuum hose won't collapse and cause brake failure . GM (& others) used to use solid steel piping on the under cab assisted brakes for just this reason . I hope this gets you alls to thinking how to crack this nut as power brakes are very good indeed , safer too .
Hey, Martinius, We are talking about two different suppliers. Our host is Classic Parts and CPP is Classic Performance Parts. Have had good dealings with Classic since it used to be Chevy Duty and Mark run it out of his garage in Shawnee Mission, Kansas---not so much so with CPP (ask Bill Hanlon).
Brakes Evan, Correct me if I'm wrong please. Why would I need a power brake booster for my existing four wheel drum brakes? Let's say they were NOT pulling severely to the left (which seems to worsen as they heat up from driving around a bit). when they DON'T pull, they stop just fine. so, I don't see the need for a power brake booster on four wheel drums if they are operating properly. Iam going to go through all the suggestions that you mentioned above first, but if that doesn't work I will probably go with the disc brake conversion offered up by Buffalo enterprises. Bill Hanlon says very nice things about that and has been in his truck for a number of years with no issues. It uses stock 4WD 12" rotors (6 lug) and calipers from mid '80's Chevy trucks. If I were to use this disc brake conversion, what master cylinder would I use? I'm assuming that I would need a power brake booster similiar to the one mentioned above, but would also need a proportioning valve for the front disc/rear drum combination. Andy
I can't remember who I bought my master cylinder and mounting bracket from, but when the MC needed replacing last year I found a casting number that crossed to a 71 Mustang disk/drum master without power brakes. Replacement cost me less that $25. Of course you need a bracket to mount it with.
Andy, You DON'T need a booster on good working brakes if the kids can stop it okay or for someone like Nate with a physical issue. If it will lock up the wheels as is then no system, disc or drum, can do any more. I don't have a booster on any of my old rides including the big and heavy 37 Buick. I have never had a master cylinder fail, WITHOUT WARNING, in over 60 years of driving so I don't clutter then up with all the extra lines, proportioning valves, and residual pressure valves. People who ignore any change in brake function are idiots. When pedal pressure gets to be an issue I'll simply go to the Chrysler manual system which is equivalent to most power set ups.
I just wanted to pull this back up. Very interesting stuff about the disc conversion. I still have 2 U bolts to undo, then block up the front to have at removing the drums and getting the disc thing going. Good stuff here.
