Does anybody have a picture of clutch arm ...

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Haasman, Oct 3, 2012.

  1. Haasman

    Haasman Member

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    I am starting to put the 51 3100 back together. Took the trans out, removed the clutch arm etc to clean. I need a picture showing the clutch arm, its link to the pedal.

    Thank you in advance,

    Haasman
     
  2. Haasman

    Haasman Member

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    Bump

    If anyone could snap a picture of the clutch arm and linkage or refer me to a picture that would be greatly appreciated.

    (OK senior moment, I am sure!)

    Thanks,

    Haasman
     
  3. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    Hope these help...
     

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  4. Haasman

    Haasman Member

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    Thank you Bruce!

    Appreciate it.

    Haasman
     
  5. SinclairChevy

    SinclairChevy Member

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    Bruce,

    What brand of Chevy Gray engine paint did you use for your build?

    Thanks,

    Damon
     
  6. Haasman

    Haasman Member

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    I used Dupli-Color high temp engine paint (500 degree)

    [​IMG]

    The color is (ironically) #1611 New Ford Gray
    [​IMG]

    I think it looks good. (sorry about the low light)

    [​IMG]

    I've never done something quite like this project before. I have learned a ton- Like I am not a painter! That even though it might look like there is not way to repair something, there actually is. For instance, driver's door all except one of the door hinge bolts broke off in the door #$@%$&*. Someone told me about nutserts! I am very thankful for the info AND for nutserts.

    Haasman
     

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  7. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Good Job !

    Please consider writing up a seperate thread detailing the upgrade to a (better & safer) manual dual circuit brake master cylinder .

    Lots of pictures and brands , part #'s , pitfalls , things you have to adapt or make etc...........
     
  8. Haasman

    Haasman Member

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    Thanks Nate, I will consider. At this point I still haven't filled/bled the brake lines. I still need to clean/paint and re-install the rear axel and attach its lines, then we'll see.

    I've just started reading about bleed dual MC etc.

    Haasman
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Brake Bleeding

    It's pretty simple ,

    You connect everything up then slowly fill the resivoir , I like to gently push the brake pedal whilst peering in the open resivoir , just barley tapping the push rod -each time you tap it , tiny bubbles will come out the by pass port , keep doing this until they stop and you've " Bench Bled " the master without making any mess .

    Always begin bleeing at the furthest cylinder from the master , this will usually be the right rear but maybe the left rear on your rig .

    Connect a rubber hose to the bleeder nipple and stick it into a clear glass container (beer or soda bottle) so it touches the bottom .

    Consider using " Speedy Bleeder " bleeding nipples , they're factory fitted to mist of those 90's vintage Chevy Police Cars cluttering up the self-service Junkyards these days , proper GM threads and everything .

    ALWAYS use a box end , 6 point wrench on the bleeders !! :eek: .

    If they're rusty and don't want to open , get a 32 Oz. ballpein hammer and hit them straight on , the shock will break them so you can open them .

    If you snap it off , A. you didn't hit it straight on and B. it was junk anyway so don't be too upset .

    I hope this is helpful .
     
  10. Haasman

    Haasman Member

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    Good reminders and suggestions.

    Speedy Bleeders! Never heard of them (http://www.speedbleeder.com) very great idea.

    Nate off the top of your head what size would the standard rear drum brakes take?

    I'll need to figure out- or better- how to figure it out what size the new disk brake calipers take.

    On the site above, he mentions using DOT 5 fluid. I have never liked the idea of DOT 5 brake fluid, silicon I believe. You?

    Haasman
     
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Brake Fluid(s)

    I've been back and forth over the DOT 5 silicone based fluid thing , yes it's wonderful stuff , it's also a serious PIA unless you take mucho time and effort to clean out the system HOSPITAL CLEAN before using it , many folks have had catastrophic brake failure because they didn't do it right :eek: .

    So , may I suggest using the DOT 5.1 fluid , this works with your old DOT 3 and 4 typ .

    Or , just take the time to find some DOT 4, most Import Car partshaus' have it .

    I don't know the correct thread size Speedi Bleeders you need , I doubt GM changed them much over the years and just to - day I was walking the Yards and spotted a few Chevy Caprice / Impalas that supposedly have them factory fitted .

    I may look into this soon as one of my oldies is leaking the front right brake cylinder a tiny bit so right after this weekends two day Road Rally and Grabot , I'll dip into the brakes on it , might be a good time to see if I can use GM Speedi Bleeders .

    Sorry I wasn't helpful .
     
  12. SinclairChevy

    SinclairChevy Member

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    Thanks for the paint info. I too, have learned I'm not a painter... but I pretty well knew that already. Hell, I'm even having difficulty not screwing up removing the rust from the block to PREP for paint... let alone get color on the damn thing. HA! :eek:

    Great project, and great progress. Like Nate, I'd be interested in learning more about your dual master cylinder set up. Right now, my plan is to just do a firewall mount unit, but I could be persuaded to change my mind... yours looks like a very clean install.

    Climberdad - Which engine paint did you go with? Always looking for more options!

    Damon
     
  13. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    Damon,

    I can not find an old can - but it was a high temp grey - Krylon if I recall correctly.



     

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