Okay, finally I'm almost to the point of removing my big ass end. My questions have to do with what is next. I happen to have a 3/4, so the driveline is split and has a carrier bearing. This truck hasn't seen speeds past 25MPH for ever and a day. Once I have it all back together, hopefully, it will see speeds up to 65MPH. (Maybe more, if I'm passing someone.) What do you think I should replace (or closely inspect) on the driveline so that I can travel at these speeds without any surprises? Thanks as usual for your ideas.
If you are keeping the 8 lug then just slip in a 410/1 and be done with it, if you are going after the 5 and 6 lug rim go jag with the all wheel disc brakes and be done with it. And what a ride the G will be. You'll still have to fix the teef but what a ride. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/f100.html http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0802rc_independent_rear_suspension/viewall.htm
Well, thanks, Charles~ However, I am keeping the straight axle. I have the new Eaton 2" lowered leaf springs and will be putting on the 6 lug disc brakes up front, Colorado rear with hopefully disc brakes out back. My concern is if the carrier bearing will be okay with the much faster speed, and should I worry about the other u-joint connections. Many thanks.
Zig, if you're going with the Colorado rear, think about going with a one piece drive shaft instead of the split one!
Do you still want to use it as a truck or just a cruiser? If a truck then the minimum work all bolt in set up is a 67-72 3/4T differential from a pickup that came with a big block and automatic; nearly always a 3.73 rear end. 3000rpm will give 69 mph with 29" tall tires. This is buzzing it pretty good and lousy for mpg but much shallower gearing kills load hauling or trailer pulling. If just a cruiser the 3.42 rear from a Colorado/Canyon will give 65mph at 2600rpm with same tires but it is a six lug instead of 8 lug axle. The hanger bearing will take more rpm than you will ever put to it and going to a shallower rear will have the driveshaft turning SLOWER for the same mph.
Exactly what I was thinking. A 1 piece drive shaft will be fine with the new rear axle set-up. No carrier bearing means one less thing to go wrong!
Thanks, all! I will have a Colorado/Canyon rear. I feel better about sticking with the split drive line. Thanks, Evan. However~ as soon as the mighty 228 gives up the ghost and I install the CHEVY 283, That will be when the two piece drive shaft exits, stage right.
But the question is: Will the Colorado rear end bolt up directly to the original 2 piece driveshaft without mods? And if mods are required, will they be cheaper or more expensive than just replacing with a one piece?
How Kool is that a Chevy 283 is it, 228 giving up the ghost. You mean they actually quit running and get a Chevy replacement. That must come just after the teef cleaning, Correct?
You may need an adapter u joint to mate old and new, just measure the cups on the driveshaft and the rear inpt shaft and see a competant NAPA man to look it up. The carrier should hold up fine if it is in good shape to begin with. These longbeds will take a one piece shaft no problem, I am running one.
Picking Corn........ You're retaining the manual tranny , correct ? . Go with the 3.42 rear end , you'l love it . The 228 won't give up the ghost , you'll have to kill it .
Cool beans~ Yes, the original 4 speed stays. I thank you all for your input! Charels, yes. IF the 228 ever gives it up a *CHEVY* 283 will take its place.
