235 engine, 1958 , 3836848 head. Is the correct torque 90 to 95 ft/lbs? I read that value for a 1955 235 engine head torque value. Thanks, Jerry
Head Bolt Torque Yes . You really should buy a shop manual for this sort of good info , the old battered , greasy & dog eared ones are only $5 and guess what ? the info doesn't go out of spec from use.... . New ones are only $29.95 and worth every penny , you'll see . I hope you use Permatex " Kopper Kote " aerosol spray on both sides of the head gasket and wipe both sealing surfaces clean with alcohol or ether (starting fluid) and a clean rag . Then , run the bolts up snug with your fingers , set the torque wrench to 10 # and begin tightening the bolts following from the center and working out , or follow the prescribed pattern in the shop manual or printed insert in the head gasket box . Keep tightening the bolts until all are at 10 # then increase the torque wrench to 20 # and do it again , keep repeating this and each time bump the torque setting up by 20 # , I usually run the torque pattern three times each setting , this draws the mallable cast iron head down nice and evenly , I never have the normal head gasket leaks , weeps & seeps most others do . Although I have an old beam typ torque wrench , I much prefer the click typ , they're very affordable these days . Once it's done , set all the valvs using the hot spec. then check and re adjust them as necessary after you've fired it up and done the 60 second breakin . All this and much more info is available FREE at ' The Old Car Manual Project' dotwhatever.... .
Told YA Nate, all of us on this Forum are going to have to chip in and get you a SUPER TRUCKER Uniform for Christmas (Your The Best Man!)
Head bolts Did you notice where he said to snug the bolts. That is extremely important. The bolts need to go all the way down using no more than your fingers. If there is any resistance you need to run a thread chaser or a tap in the hole. Take some good advice from someone who has been there and done the wrong thing. just for fun, lets say a couple of the bolts take 10 pounds of torque just to get them down to the head, when you finally tighten them all, those two will be putting 10 pounds less pressure on the head and will probably cause a blown headgasket. In my opinion cleaning any threaded hole is well worth the few minutes it takes and will prevent future problems. Good luck Gerald from Florida
What Gerald Said Plus , the taps are really cheap from OSH Hardware etc. and taking the time to chase the various threaded holes , makes you a better Mechanic and you'll be ever so proud when folks say ' hey , your truck is nice , it runs really well too ! ' ~ . I must ask : what's a " Super Trucker Uniform " ?? . I was talking to my old freind Keith right before he died and he made a big point about calling me a "Master Mechanic " ~ a thing I surly doubt but he was a Machinst's Mate in WWII so maybe he saw a thing I don't . The main thing is : these trucks were pecifically designed to be repaired far from any shop by YOU , using regular tools .
Nate,It Would Be Like Super Mans Out Fit, But Better! I am Just Praising You For All the Great Help You Offer to Everyone, I Think there are allot of our old trucks still running in the same shape IF Not BETTER from all the Help you have Given! That is what this forum is all about to Me and I am sure for others too! Just saying Thanks for always being there!and giving a helping Hand! Allen
Thanks Nate and everone else. I now know everything about installing a 235 head EXCEPT the answer to my original question, Proper torque setting. I guess I'll have to purchase the manual! Thank You Jerry
'55 Chevy shop manual says 90-95 ft lbs. here: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm0691.html '59 truck shop manual says the same here "oiled": http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1959trucksup/59ctsms0822.html
But you did figure out the perfect answer. After you look up the torque setting, you'll have the answer to all those unasked questions, also...
Aomeone with a manual please chime in I know on the newer and thinner inlines (250) one (or both) of the front headbolts was slightly less torque to prevent cracking the block because of the thinner water jacket. Is that the same with the older ones too?
Lubricated Head Bolts Thanx Bill ! . I always do this but I get so much flak about it I stopped suggesting it , instead I try to remind that clean threads gaurantee proper torque values . Don't forget the Kopper Kote ! .
