My '47 1/2 ton has a second switch on the starter forward of the one that connects directly to the battery. I assume this is an ignition switch since wires from it connect to the coil, etc. Also, my dash mounted switch is merely an on/off (which can be locked or flipped on and off without a key). This second switch is connected by a bar (with return spring) to the main starter switch. Does anyone know where I can find one of these? I've checked Classic Parts and other old Chevy parts suppliers but can't find it. Thanks!
Polarity Reversing Switch If you really want to keep it , simply open it up and hand polish the contacts , it'll work fine another 50 years . What it is is , a foolish attempt by Generous Motors Corporation to increase ignition points life by running the current backwards through them when you're operating the starter.... I'd toss it .
No Response ?? I forgot to mention it is called a " Polarity Reversing Switch " by GM , that might help you in your search for a new one , Chevs Of The 40s in Washington State will prolly have N.O.S. ones in stock . It was used fom 1941 ~ 1947.1 in cars & light duty trucks .
Thanks Nate and Charles Thanks Nate. After you identified it, I was able to find it in the “Filling Station” catalog. But when I called they said they didn't have one in stock. But they also said that most mechanics took them off back in the day. So, if I remove it how do I wire around it? I checked my MOTORS MANUAL but they don't mention it. I assume run a wire from the starter terminal to the amp meter, through the ignition switch, and then back to the positive on the coil? But how is the distributor wired? And if I convert to 12v later on will I be able to use the polarity reversing switch? Meanwhile I'll check out Chevys of the 40s. Thanks again!
Polarity Reversing Switch Oh that ~ just ground one dist. terminal and run the other one to the negative side of the coil and it'll work fine . Carefully remove the switch and linkage , some damnfool may want to BUY it Me , I'd go find a single terminal Dizzy but that's not necessary .
Now what Nate? It's been a while (the weather is nasty and my truck is outside). I removed the switch and installed a new battery, battery cables, starter, coil, cap, rotor, points, condenser, plugs, and plug wires. I also ran a new wire from the ignition switch to the pos. side of the coil, a wire from the neg. side of the coil to points side of the dist. and a new wire from the condenser side of the dist. to the grounding stud (bolt) I installed on the frame next to the battery. But it's not starting and I'm getting no spark when I ground a plug cathode to the frame. It cranks well (with the proper 6v cable), but still no fire in the hole. Last summer, I replaced the entire fuel system up to the carb--and since the carb was good when I last started it a couple of years ago, I'm pretty sure it's still good. So, I'm confident that the fuel system is good since even with starter fluid it won't even sputter. What am I doing wrong? Might the new coil be bad? Could I have fried it by reversing the polarity? Is the distributor polarized? I already considered that and switched the wires, but still no help.
Electric wiring system ! Hey there and welcome aboard. Its posseble that you have fried it but nor likely as it is a 6 volts system. Are you shore that you bought the right model coil ? I would advice you to look it up in one of the tech manuals how to the wire your electric sirquit correctly. You could check out the sirguit components manually with a multymeter or screwdriver with inspection light in it. If there is `nt any spark i would check the coil , sparkplugwires and caps, ignition , relay on the firewall , alternator , fuses ect. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/ Good luck Martinius.
Try eliminating the condensor to ground wire. It just needs the ign to coil + and coil - to points to run. Pop the cap, pull coil wire from DISTRIBUTOR and hold near ground, rattle points open and closed with a plastic/wood handled screwdriver and see if you get fire from the coil wire. If not there's a good chance somehthing is grounded in or around the points. If you have fire then it's downstream from the points/coil/condensor.
Thanks for your help, Coilover, but you must be thinking of another type of distributor. Your idea didn't work but you inspired me to tinker with it a bit more. I disconnected the wire from the condenser side of the dist. to ground, but it still didn't start. Then (finally) I checked for voltage at the pos. terminal of the coil and there was none. So, I gave up on my assumption that the wires to and from the ignition switch were good, and loosly clamped a wire under the nut on the starter switch and connected the other end of it to the pos. side of the coil--still no start. So, I re-connected the ground wire on the condenser side of the dist. and IT STARTED! So, to shut it off I had to yank the wire from under the nut on the starter switch. Until I can run new wires under the dash, I'll just run an old two conductor lamp cord through the firewall with a toggle switch on the interrior end and with the other end connected to the starter switch and the pos. on the coil--then I'll use the toggle switch as a temporaty ignition switch. So, to review: Battery to starter switch terminal; then to ignition switch (via amp gauge); from ignition switch to pos. side of coil; neg. side of coil to points side of distributor; condenser side of distributor to ground. It's that simple--with no pesky polarity reversing switch! Now that it starts I need to adjust the timing, valves, etc. since it's running a bit rough after all these years of neglect--but I'm making progress. By the way: your advice was right on Nate--so thanks!
It runs !! YAY ! (note clever use of CHEVROLET BLUE there ) " By the way: your advice was right on Nate--so thanks! " ~ even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while.... . Thank you .
