Hello folks, OK, are all the cabs the same from year to year from 1947 through 1954? I'm thinking about switching from my cab to a 5 window bc they are much cooler in my opinion. The one I'm looking at is on a 1 ton but from the looks of it, everything is the same. Am I just seeing things or are they they same from 1/2 ton to 1 ton? thanks TOMCAT
The csbs are mostly the same up to 54, where the one piece window came in. 47-48 had the gas tank under the bed, 49 up was in the cab. 47-50 had the driver's side lower cowl, dissappeared in 51 with the vent windows appearing in the door. 1 ton and 1/2 ton shared the same basic cab, difference was in the fenders.
FANTASTIC!!! I might have the deal of the century and I'll be happy to share this info with all you fine folks of course. I refuse to talk about it now and spoil my luck. more to come... TOMCAT
Keep in mind that the cab mounts were changed in 1949. 47 & 48 had four mounts, where 49-55 had five mounts.
OK, well the cab that i'm looking at is a 1948 5 window original rust free cab which would make my life 1000x easier w/r to my project. Additionally it has ALL the small stuff I need which will be fantastic. Of course, I love the 5 window which mine is not. There has to be some kind of work around w/r to the cab mount situation, right?
I must be missing something, because my 50 Chevy has only 4 mount locations. Two bolts at the front and two "shackle style" mounts at the rear. Steve.
I am pretty sure its 3 and 4 mounts not 4 and 5 mounts. He may have typo'd. But the point still is the mounting is different.
The benefit of living in a dry western state, we cannot find rust-free cabs ANYWHERE here in the midwest. It's not any of my business, but, I'm wondering what a good rust-free cab goes for out there. I'm going to put close to $1000.00 in floor pan and patch panels in mine, and fortunately have the shop and tools/ability to do the labor. Steve
Actually, the additional mount is at the very front, under the radiator. The shop manual refers to all of them as mounts, even though only 3 or 4 are under the cab proper.
3 on the 48 I took a 48 cab and put it on a 53 only because Nate said it would work. The 48 had the two mounts in the front and a single mount in the center in the back of the cab. My cab came from a grain truck. I discarded the center mount and had to repair around the front mounts as they were cracked. There were tabs at the back of the 53 cab that I took out and I used them on the 48 and went back with the mounting system of the 53. It made sense at the time 4 had to better then three. The 48 was rust and dent free (sort of) and it went back together with no problem. Great advise from Nate. I used the doors from the 48 because they were really good. Go for it. Papy
The deal is done. The guy came by the house this morning and we struck a deal for everything from the cab forward to the bumper. I know that since this is a 1 ton some stuff wont be the same - but I've got the important stuff and that's all I care about. Photos to come later today... TOMCAT
Nu-View Cab Sounds like a good deal ! . Don't sweat the mounts , you'll want the 4 mount version anyway , it rides better and stresses those pesky front Toe Board mounts less . Don't toss out the Big 'Bolt fenders & etc. as there are folks who'll want them . Pix , now , during the repairs and when finished ~ we want ALL stages covered . ? My advice ? as Mr. Medji says : even I don't follow it .
I had a late appointment yesterday that I forgot about with all the excitement. I'm going to load 2 of my 3 heathens (kids) up and head to the guys house for a upclose and more personal view of my new family member. Curious - I need some recommendations on the best way to remove and transport the cab. Is it as easy as removing the mounting bolts, disconnecting any other stuff that's attached to the engin/body and move it? Also, should I just get 5-6 buddies and some 2x4s under the cab and move it that way to a trailer? I'm thinking about yanking the doors, seat and any other stuff that weighs something to lighten th load. When I moved my current cab - it was just me and the guy who sold me the truck. We were able to horse that baby right around with relative ease, so they aren't all that heavy. Any logical starting points? i.e. removing the hood, fenders etc. Any and all assistance is GREATLY appreciated TOMCAT
Tomcat, be sure and take a barrel of penetrating oil. Nuts and bolts can be very stubborn. One pain in the butt will be the steering column. You will need to do one of two things in order to remove the cab. First alternative would be to remove the steering wheel and then lift the cab diagonally backward to clear the column. Or you could disconnect the steering box and pitman arm from the frame and remove the cab. Of course, the entire steering assembly goes with you and the cab at that point. Thirdly, do both the the above and drop the steering box forward to minimize the height you need to clear the column. Hope my explanation makes sense to you. Good luck and remember to take a BFH with you! Ken
Thanks Ken! So aside from the cab mounts and other obvious odds and ends that are right out in the open, the steering assembly will be the only thing holding the cab onto the frame? Going back diagonally is not an option as theres a flatbed wiht stakes full of crapola and I cant get around that. The only thing this old boy wants is the frame, wheels, axles and drivetrain - the rest is mine. I am going to try and start work on this pretty soon as I have about as much patience as a 2 yr old when there's something I REALLY want. I'll keep you all posted. w/r to photos - I have MANY, but with a family of 3 kids 9 and under, they want to "help" (especially my 5 yr old boy) and that WILL be dangerous. My family eats up a LOT of my time and my work schedule is about as weird as they come, so the photos will just magically appear, but I want to share them with you guys bc they are pretty darned cool. I'll keep you all posted w/the happenings and again, thanks for the assistance with this endeavor!!! TOMCAT
Wowzers, you have a problem. (Kind of) Ken already did a good job of explaining, so let me be redundant. You will need to remove the steering wheel, since you are putting it right back on, (kind of) mark across steering shaft onto wheel so when reinstalling the steering wheel, you simply need to line up the marks to get the wheel "lined up" again. Disconnect the pitman arm and pull it from the box, not from the drag link. Remove the 4 or 5 bolts holding the steering box/column to the frame. (BAG THOSE BOLTS AND LABEL BAG AS TO WHERE THEY CAME FROM) Now you are ready to remove the steering column from the cab. Remove cab bolts to frame. Break them if you need too, there are more out there. Just save the broken ones so you know the length/size/thread that you'll need as replacements. If not already done, REMOVE DOORS. (You will loose <many> pounds of metal this way.) Take seat out and gas tank, too. You'll want them out anyway for cleaning/painting, and it will again lighten the load. Now that that is done, go to the high school and find some football players. (Defensive line type) and tell them you need their help. Move cab to trailer. As Nate said, pictures, pictures, pictures!
Tomcat, I know that you are anxious to get this part done, but a word of friendly advise! Take your time! Soak those stubborn nuts, bolts etc. A couple of days or more of squirting penetrating oil on EVERYTHING that needs to be removed will save you a lot of anguish! If it were me, here's my game plan. After a good soaking, I would remove the hood. Next on the agenda, I'd drop the front bumper and splash guard in the front so that I could remove the grille (it is attached to the radiator support, inner fender and fender on both sides). Next would be removal of wiring from inner fenders, support braces from cab to inner fenders. After that is done, remove bolts attaching the fenders from the cab. At this point, both the inner fenders and fenders should come off. Next, remove all of the cables from the dash gauges, the brake and clutch pedal assembly, heater hoses if necessary, remove steering wheel, disconnect the steering box and pitman arm and get ready to lift that bad boy off. Zig mentioned removing the doors for weight maintenance. Do yourself a favor and scribe around the hinges for reference for when you put the doors back on. Aids in re-assembly. I'm sure I've missed a few things, but take it slow and it will be yours! Ken
