Sit goes like this.... Rebuilt 235. Finally started today after figuring out I had the distributor cap on 180 backwards. Once we figured that out she fired first try. And 4 other times. But now... Starter won't engage at all, but starter motor will spin sometimes when pressed by hand but not at all when we use the foot pedal. The pedal does push the starter switch all the way down. Sometimes it makes a clunking noise and sometimes it makes no noise. So things I have tried: Battery is charged and it was new to begin with Rocking truck back and forth thinking starter may be bound up on the flywheel Checking battery connections and other loose wiring Please help!
Similar thread going on ! There is a similar thread going one nowerdays . Look at Doug49 thread , a lots of questions and answers there. You could place your questions there aswell offcourse. Sounds to me that your starter is in a bad shape and needs a checkup. Take it of the flywheel mount and test the starter in the workbench .Connect + and minus contacts with a 12 or 6 volts battery depnding on your system, and see if it spins fast in and out. Then clean it with a cloth and some mild cleaning liguid , be carefull with air pressure usage as it could ruin the 2 tiny bearings inside easely. Do not polish anything with sandingpaper. If it does not function at all you could rebuild it your self as our host and NAPA have all the parts you would need to do that. Or have a workshop to overhaul the starter for you if..... ? A third option is to buy an overhauled one with additional core charge. pay attention to the footstumb starter aswell and check the cable ground connection. Check fuses if there are any and clean them aswell. Good luck Martinius.
Starter was tested and is in good shape. Did replace the switch due to wear. Question I have is wiring. I posted something in the electrical section but with no responses. Correct me if I am wrong please. + from battery to starter/ +@coil. -@ coil to distributer. Everything else is stock. Another anomaly is that went to work on the problem this morning and the battery was drained dead. No key in ignition and new battery. Anyone have a guess on that one?
Crane, I installed a cut-off switch on the + battery feed. Doesn't solve the problem, but eliminates the result! Also came in handy when one of my positive wires went to ground and started smoking out the cab.
Good idea. I may install one after I figure this out. Don't want to add another thing to check at this point. Still scratching my head over this one...
El. sirguit troubleshooting Sounds right to me. Correct me if I am wrong please. + from battery to starter/ +@coil. -@ coil to distributer. Everything else is stock. battery probebly coocked or power whas not shot of as you might have wired something the opposite way that leads power to - wich indicates to that ? I woulds check the sirguit again between ignition switch starter , generator, coil and fuse box. Use a volt meter or the old fashion way with a control lamp screwdriver. There are free el. sirguit manuals to find at "old chevrolet manuals" on the internet. Another anomaly is that went to work on the problem this morning and the battery was drained dead. No key in ignition and new battery. Anyone have a guess on that one?[/QUOTE]
So I have figured I have a short some where. When I hook up my battery cables I get a pretty good bright blue "spark", like a welder puts out. I have checked my ground and its good. As far as I can see my wiring from battery to starter to coil and distributor look good. Anybody have any ideas!?! I really wanna get thing rolling. Fresh motor and new rear end, I wanna see how she drives!!!!!
Start by disconnecting things. Pull all the fuses. Does that spark still occur? If not, put the fuses back one at a time, checking for your "spark" each time. Are the brake lights on all the time?
First, take the main feed wire off the starter battery terminal; it's the only other wire besides the battery cable. With this wire off NOTHING works besides the starter but this is what you need to check out. If the cable still arcs now then the short is in the starter or switch. You are then left with only the starter so if it doesn't work right it IS the starter, linkage, or switch. Use a large screwdriver to push down on just the switch button and if the starter spins everytime then the contact is good and the starter motor itself is good. Now use the large screwdriver to push the lever down onto the switch button. If it just spins the starter motor but doesn't turn the engine over then the Bendix (starter drive) is bad. If nothing happens then the linkage isn't letting the lever depress the switch enough. Check this by taking the link free from the top of the lever and push the lever down onto the switch button. If it now works it's in the linkage.
Short ? Check battery voltage if charged or not with voltage meter or 12 volt lamp.Its not unuseal to get a spark when connecting the battery poles if you connect them the opposite way - first and then + pole. Check if + cable is somewhere in contact with the chassis. Short sirquit : If the sirquit wries are old or damaged anywhere in the sirquit that would be posseble to see, like open or melted cables. Only way to find out is to follow all the el. cables from your head fuze box. Do this step by step and learn how to. At first the starter function , second coil function , third dynamo function, fourth main sirquit fore light switch front and rear and inside and other functions. Check if any water is inside the front or rear light or if there is any visual corrosion on the sockets. Not likely but check if there is a dead man stop button in function between battery and dash ? NB. beware of the fact not to start the engine and putting your hands near the ignition or coil , that experience is something you will remember the rest of your life Good luck Martinius.
Starter Probs I had a similar problem. When I bought my truck, the previous owner told me that the flywheel probably had a 'bad tooth'. He said during a start, the starter will have a loud 'clunk' and he pushes the truck and put it in third gear while moving slowly. He says the truck will then start (most of the time). After I had it a few days, sure enough, when I tried to start it, I heard the loud clunk, then nothing on trying to restart. So, I pushed the truck and threw it into gear. I assumed the previous owner was right. However, soon after, I replaced the 'battery box' as mine had a lot of rust. I installed the battery and when I tried to start it, heard the loud clunk, then nothing on restart. I did have the battery cable off from the frame (the ground cable). So, I made a #2 cable and connected it where the ground cable connects to the frame and the other end to a 'starter bolt'. The truck started right up and had no further problems. I think the starter was loosing ground when under load (sometimes). Hope this helps. Roger
i got it to work. i could hear the black box on the drivers side firewall "tripping". it has a stamped 6v on there. i was originally told that i could get away with using all 6v components except coil and battery and just using load reducers to the dash components. can anybody confirm or deny?
6 To 12 Volts You can use the ammeter and all switches & wires ~ every thing else MUST be converted .
