A couple of questions in preparation for swap. This is a 1951 one ton truck with the 2 piece drive shaft. When removing the drive shaft, will it separate at the knuckle behind the tyranny or do I split it back further so as to use the slip joint? Will the engine, bell and tyranny have to move a bit ahead for it to split at the front knuckle? Do I separate the foot stomp starter linkage right on top of the starter or at another point? Where should I separate the clutch linkage? How does the SM 420 shift lever come out? My plan is pulling engine, bell housing and tyranny as one piece. I do have the front clip off, the wiring out of the way, Temp gauge and oil pressure gauge disconnected on the engine. Is there anything I am overlooking? I appreciate any tips to ease the pain or enhance the fun. Thanks in advance. Jerry This question as quoted was asked over at StoveBolt.com so as to smooth this transition. What I got was a bunch of "Shootingt off the Hip replys . I dont want to go into this Confused. Any body who has been there, Done that, have ANY answers to ANY of the questions I have posed? Thank You Very much. Jerry
Hi Jerry. Welcome. I hope I can help some, however, my pictures are of a 1/2 ton truck. If your trans "looks" like this, these pictures may help. If you remove the 4 bolts holding the ball assembly to the rear of the tranny, and loosen the ring on the driveshaft behind that, you should be able, with a lot of wiggling and cleaning, to slide back the ball assembly. This will expose the U-Joint. Unbolt the U-Joint and then you can separate the driveshaft from the tranny. If you're removing the eng, bell housing, and tran together, you can unscrew the stomp starter pedal from just in front of firewall where the pedal passes through. The clutch linkage can be "adjusted" 'till it's real loose, and then separate right in front of firewall as well. I hope your truck matches my pictures so this can help some. Bill
Bilbo, I appreciate the reply. I picked a few ideas out of it. As far as trying to compare a 1 ton 4 speed transmission and drive shaft set up , NO Cigar. I think what your trying to explain is the half ton with a torque tube set up. Its looking like I will have to separate the transmission from the bell housing. Anybody have any idea as to What New Can of Worms that will bring on for re installation?
Having Fun Look at the bottom of the shift lever , there's a grimy sheet metal round thing , *gently* depress it and twist it 1/4 turn to unlock it and the shift lever will pop right out . Once in a while you'll need to CAREFULLY use some Water Pump Pliers to twist it ~ you have to press it down a little bit before it will turn . If you have a hoist , remove the engine and tranny to - gether but be aware that's some heavy iron there that's just waiting for you to get careless so it can BITE YOU . The pedal starter shaft has a 9/16" (IIRC) jamb nut on the lower end of it , loosen this and the button and shaft lift right out . Use the highest studs you can to hoist the engine so it dangles . I use one at the left rear of the cylinder head and one at the right front . USE BIG FLAT WASHERS between the bolts and the chain so the bolt heads don't pull though the chain loops at the worst possible moment ! . Likewise , use bolts long enough to bottom out in the holes , not overly long but for sure long enough . I hope this helps , take your time and be careful . SAVE ALL HARDWARE ! it's vastly superior quality to anything you can buy new . The rear motor mounts have long vertical bolts and inside is a sheet metal tube that often falls out and gets lost ~ this is a critical , unobtanium part .
Nate, Thank You. Valuable Info! This being a 1 Ton With SM 420 -4 speed the guys over at Stovebolt.com keep telling me that the Transmission has to be separated from the bell housing as it will not clear the Rear Motormount cross member. I would love to hear from a 1 ton owner tell me that is B.S. I have pulled a 216 from a 1947 thru 1954 chevy 1 ton and NOT SEPARATED Tranny from Belll Housing. Thanks everyone! The Challenges are 90% of the battle! Jerry
Engine/Tranny Removal Please understand it's been decades since I did one but I'm quite sure you can remove them as a unit . Yes , the rear crossmember must be removed when you're replacing the clutch but that's a whole 'nother deal as the engine is supported by the floating front mount and the bell housing's side mounts . I'd like to mention that if both vehicles are 6 volts , take a moment to measure the flywheel's working surface as there were several and you'll be wanting to use the larger of the two so you'll never wear out a clutch again . Of course , the teeth on 6 & 12 volt starters are different so you'll have to use the starter that came with the larger clutch flywheel unless they're both 6 volts or your rig is now 12 volts in which case you can run the 6 volt starter on 12 volts and not hurt it . Remember whilst it's apart : replace the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft to ensure good shifting and not clutch chatter , flip the flywheel over and carefully wash then wire brush the area where the ball bearing and triangle are and mark a circle around the ball bearing and use a paper match to float some white paint in the triangle ~ The triangle (or chevron) stamping is the true T.D.C. mark , the ball bearing is the 7.5? B.T.D.C. timing mark , both are very important to making this old engine run like new forevermore , even when it's worn out and dead and smokes enough to kills 'skeeters two counties away .
