Our host offers two 12 volt electric wiper motor kits, one at $174.95 (orgin unknown) and one at $199.95 (USA made). Both claim "Replaces old vaccum motor perfectly, without modification", but both also warn "This unit will not clear the stock choke cable." I use my manual choke a lot, so these two offerings are off the table. Anyone have a BOLT IN with NO MODIFICATIONS NECESSARY 12 volt wiper solution for a 3/4 ton GMC truck?
I remember mounting one of these in a 54 truck years ago {when I was able to crawl under a dash without having to go to the chiropractor afterwards} & if I remember correctly the clearance problem was with the mounting bracket itself. Don't know if the new repops are the same as the ones sold a few years ago but....All you need to do is drill a hole in the mounting bracket & feed the cable through it for it to work.
Switch the choke to the to the bottom cut the throttle to only have the minimum where the flex starts & put it at the top I bought the only wiper motor at that time out there and it works great.
Bill, I went the built in the USA way and had no problems installing it. (except for my vision and blood flow with my arms always lifted up like some zombie. Then of course there were those iddy biddy nuts to try and get started, but other than that~) Apparently the choke cable was not a problem. I took the seat cushions out and the shift lever was still out so i made me a plywood "bed" to lay on. That REALLY helped. Good luck!
My hand throttle cable isn't hooked up (wrong carb) so I don't mind moving (or just removing) it. I'm interpreting your statement to mean cut the throttle cable off after it goes through the dash, just leaving a dummy throttle cable to fill the dash hole once occupied by the choke. Correct? Thanks for the suggestion.
I am looking for a new seat (I'm 6'5" and way over optimum weight), so maybe I'll put off the wiper motor change until I get the old seat out. I measured a friends '54 Chevy pickup. He gained 2.5" between the firewall and the seat back and 2" of headroom by removing the gas tank and installing a second row seat from a 95-04 Astro/Safari van.
Correct, once behind the dash and the assembly tightens up good, where the flex portion of the cable starts is where I cut mine. I can not get you a picture the truck is in Az. right now. Hope this helps, Charles
Hand Control Cables It's been a decade since I replaced one *but* the original and re pop cables were always longer so one part # would fit COE's as well as the smaller , shorter distance pickups ~ Why not just run it a little bit longer & trim to suit . Back in the 1960's I'd go grab the *perfect* if rusty & seized cables out of COE's & work some penetrant or ATF in the Bowden until I could pull the cable center out , hand polish the cable , install and trim the Bowden then pack the Bowden with long fiber (white Lithium usually) grease and slather the cable wide with more as I carefully re - installed it , cut off the bent & mangled too long end and VIOLA ! I had a nice looking original choke and throttle cable , only problem was for the next 10 years , they'd slide back in as you drove , this isn't a bad thing IMO . To keep the RPM's up when using the headlights as work lights late at night in the field I just kept an old wooden clothespin on the Bowden under the dash ~ it'd hold the throttle knob out *just* enough to brighten up those 6 volt lamps and not overs peed the unladen engine . I'd love to see the U.S.A. made wiper setup , whenever possible , i buy American made products , not fi they're shoddy crap tho' . It never occurred to me to remove the lower seat cushion and lay in some plywood and maybe a bit of carpet ~ jeezo-peezo what a brilliant & simple solution ! .
Bill, like you, I'm a might tall to sit behind the wheel and have everything just right. So now I'm wondering why GMC didn't make their cabs bigger so real men wouldn't be so cramped? Anyway, I once read on here about cutting off some of the brake pedal shaft so it won't stick out so far from the floor board. First I thought there would be no way I'd do that, but now, with the pedal up tight against the firewall, I'm wondering how in the heck I got my foot on there to stop it back when I was driving it!
Newport Engineering makes one that is suppose to work with the stock choke cable. It's not the bracket that causes the problem but the motor assembly itself.
I haven't tried an Astro seat or one from the Chrysler van but many others have with good results I hear. The seat that provided the most room in a small cab was the back seat out of a BMW 4dr sedan. Since they sell their car as "The driving machine" even the back seat has side and lumbar support. It is both low and the back is thin. A tilt column also helps a lot for a big person. Have shortened brake pedal shafts and then lengthened the actuator rod arm a like amount which gives the same amount of travel to the actuator rod into the master cylinder. This works good with a power booster but takes King Kong effort if brakes are left manual. Don't even THINK of asking me what BMW the seat came out of. It was black and sat between a Riviera and a KIA.
Power brakes are already in place, so no limitation there. OK, I won't ask about the BMW. Where is the Riviera?
Where To Look The BMW is trash , means it's way back in most Junkyards , near the fence , where the Yard Apes pi$$ and so on . The Buick Rivera of course , will be near the office where there's lights as you don't leave the GOOD STUFF out where any old body can mess with it .
