My truck is a '58. It still has the original front straight axle. I am considering installing disc brakes on it using the 6 bolt pattern. If you have installed discs on your truck would you please comment on the installation and if you are pleased with the results. Did the installation go as advertised? Did you need parts that were not included? Where did you get the kit? Did you run into any unforeseen problems? Did you need any specialty wrenches? If I do this I am going to use a new master cylinder with proportioning valve and the new tapered bearings. Thanks for your input, your opinion is important to me. Gerald in Florida
I put a 6 lug disk brake kit from Buffalo Enterprises (a one man machine shop in Washington state) on my '57 GMC half ton. Best thing I ever did to my truck. No problems at all. The reason I chose this kit was that it was just the brackets and attaching hardware. It came with a list of what calipers, longer lug bolts and rotors to buy at your local auto parts store, avoiding the markup that the specialty old truck vendors charge for common parts and letting you know what parts to buy if one ever needed replacing. At the same time I added a NON-power dual chamber master cylinder kit. Don't remember where I got that kit, but most of the vendors (including our host Classic Parts) carry one. Check your king pins for wear. This would be a great time to replace them if need be.
Disc Brakes What Bill Said ! . Doing it this way makes it much cheaper and easier to repair / service as the years go by . Use the master cylinder from a 1972 Chevrolet C/10 ~ it bolts in fairly easily , you'll prolly have to fiddle around with the push rod length , make sure the pedal returns sharply to it's stop before adjusting ir cutting anything . You're going to love these brakes .
CPP six lug kit Gerald, not long ago I did the disc brake upgrade to my 1956. I also have the straight axle with six lugs. I purchased the 5559CBK-6HK kit from CPP. It's a bit of an investment but I feel like it was well worth it. It included everything you need, the master with a mounting bracket ( I kept the master under the floor), rotors, calipers and brackets, hubs and tapered bearings and other misc. parts. The only snag I ran into was that the hubs they provided did not have the three holes drilled correctly for attaching the spacer to the hub. I had to drill them out myself. Anyway, it all went fairly smoothly. I also replaced all of my brake line while I was at it. If you go with the CPP kit, watch their web site. They frequently have 10% off sales around big holidays. I would think they will have one soon for the 4th. Good luck!
The problem with doing the "includes everything" kit is that the Old Truck parts resellers usually manage to not let it be known what parts they are using. Then down the road a part fails (or is just plain worn out) and you can't figure out what you need to ask for at FLAPS. Also, the cost of the common parts is usually much less at FLAPS. The "kit" I bought had only the caliper mounting brackets and the bolts to attach them to the spindles. The parts list that came with the kit said to get front rotors, calipers, caliper guide pins and pads from a '77 Chevy 1/2 ton 4 wheel drive and hoses from I don't remember what. Rock Auto (today) sells the rotors and calipers for around $25 ($100 total) and less than another $100 for the pads, hoses and guide pins. Add in the original cost of the kit (in 1995) and you are around $300.
Disk Brakes.... I chose the classic performance route because it was just easier for me. I have been struggling to finish this project and I was doing the king pins at the same time so it just worked out. Everything bolted up and fit fine. The only hick up I had was I needed two spacers to use my stock 16" rims as the set back was too shallow. I still have the stock suspension so i think it came out great. Really close to finishing this.......
I just completed the install on my wife's 57 using the 6 lug kit from CPP. I opted for the kit that comes with the (frame mounted) master cylinder/booster, upgraded hubs and tapered bearings. It came with everything needed for the upgrade. There were no missing or additional parts required except for new brake lines for the front (obviously). I mocked everything up on one side to make sure there weren't any issues/surprises then took it apart for paint, then re-assembled again. Bled the M/C and then bled the brake lines and everything is good to go. 2 things I noticed about this kit which may or may not affect your particular installation. I consider these minor but your results may vary: #1 The threaded rod for the brake booster/MC seemed to be about an inch too long which I assumed would place a 'pre-load' on the brakes. I contacted CPP and recieved a shorter rod from them. #2 After final assembly of the booster and M/C, I noticed that the brake pedal rod was not centered in the hole in the firewall where it travels in an arc. All it took was a little 'relief work' on the brake pedal rod and the hole itself and all is well. I am stationed in Pensacola so feel free to contact me if you have any other questions about the CPP kit. I am very happy with the kit itself and the customer service I received from CPP.
brakes The responses that I have received so far in this short time have been great. It amazes me how much help a person can get on this forum. Because of the responses so far, my truck is going to get disc brakes, I have not decided from who yet. Thanks to everyone. If anyone else wants to put in your two cents worth be sure to do it. Gerald in Ocala, Florida.
to LDO Bob Bob, thank you for your service to our country. The truck belongs to your wife you said. Lucky woman. If y'all get near Ocala let me know, maybe you and I and our better halves could get together at a local restaurant. Thanks for your response to my brake question. Gerald in Ocala. Ocala is right on Interstate 75 and we are about 2 miles east of the interstate. Ocala is about 90 minutes north of Disney and about the same time from Orlando and about the same to Daytona.
No problem Gerald. Yes, wife has the 57 now and I have a 66. We're about 6.5 hours from you but you never know, I may convince the wife on a weekend getaway/road trip! Retiring soon and trying to stay here but a new job may move us to Orlando or elsewhere in Fl. We'll see! Good luck with your mods. Not sure if you are a fan of Facebook but there are a few 55-59 pages on there that are also full of very helpfull folks. I actually was in California a few weeks ago and was able to visit the CPP showroom. Man, what a place!! Kind of nice to see where some of these parts come from. Very nice and helpful folks there too. Post up some pictures of the truck!
photos Bob, if you click on the tab at top "photos" and then go to 1955-1959 you will see 4 photos of a yellow truck, that's mine. Gerald
Have Kit Too I have the CCP kit with the master cylinder under the floor, had the kit for a year need to install soon. Will try to keep stock 16 inch wheels, so may need 1/2 spacers.
Buffalo Enterprises Bill, I called Buffalo and he is sending me his information in the mail. He doesn't do computers. He is definitely old school but I like that. I have the info from all the other suppliers. After I get his then it will be time to decide which one to use. Thanks again Gerald in Florida
Steve, as far as I know, the only issue is with stock 15" wheels. I think you'll be ok running 16". I'm running 15s on mine that I purchased from summit. 15x8 chrome corvette rallies and everything fit just fine.
The kit I got from Buffalo had two 1/4" spacers (that I gave to Zig). I used 15x7 (I think) 4x4 rally wheels that were on my '57 GMC when I bought it which cleared the calipers without the spacers.
decision I am leaning toward using LMC brakes, master cylinder and bearings. I like their kits, especially the master cylinder with the combination (proportioning valve) valve already on it. Our hosts kit is ok but you would have to run lines connecting the master cylinder and the proportioning valve. I am not the best at plumbing brake lines. Plumbing the extra lines in Classic Parts kit is the decision maker for me. I do not want power brakes and LMC and our hosts are about the only ones that sell a kit without power. Thanks for everyones input. If anyone knows about a master cylinder/proportioning valve combo that Classic parts sells. please tell me. I will wait a few days before purchasing anyones kit. Gerald in Florida
Gerald, If you are going with a disk brake kit you will need to replumb as well. If I remember correctly the original master had two lines one went to the left front, the other went to the left rear across the axle to the right rear and then back up to the right front. If you try to reuse that set up you will "pull" to the left when braking. Frank
Ldo My truck has a mid 80s master cylinder on it in the place of the old original. The old rusty lines were replaced with new ones that were offered in a kit form that was for the original master cylinder which required some plumbing at the new master cylinder. A line runs from the master cylinder then down the left frame to the flex line that goes to the rear end then from there to each side. The other line runs from the master cylinder then up the left frame to a fitting where a flex line goes to the left front wheel, also from that same fitting the line goes across the cross member to the right front wheel. I believe the front lines all will have to be replaced with bigger lines to supply enough brake fluid to the disc brakes. Since the rear is retaining the original drum style the original small lines should be just fine. The advertisement says, "requires fabrication of new front brake lines." Thanks for your input Gerald
I replaced the front lines on my truck because I wanted to split them anyways but I ended up with the plumbing the same way you stated. One line comes out of the proportion valve and into an inline pressure valve then it splits off in a y block just forward of the motor mount. One goes up to the driver side wheel, the other goes around the front cross member over to the pass. side. The rear goes from the prop. valve into an inline pressure valve then out to a flex hose then to a y block on the rear end splitting out to each wheel (drum). Hope this helps. If you need pics, let me know, I can take some this weekend.
