What are possible problems when only getting 5-6v to coil? How does voltage jump to 12v to coil with foot starter? thanks..andy
Ignition By-Pass Some of the pedal typ starter switches have a little threaded stud sticking out the side , you run a wire from that to the hot side of the coil and it works the same as solenoid operated 12 volt units . Or , go to some sort of breakerless ignition and never worry about starting issues again .
thanks..I see this starter has that lug, my other starter did not..I will try that and what is the breakerless ignition all about? thanks...andy
Breakerless Ignition It's about better spark and less maintenance , also more power , increased feul economy all at the same time . Many different schools of thought but the simplest thing is : By removing the breaker points , you drive the ignition system to it's highest possible out put all the time , regardless of engine speeds or loads . This is why the Pertronix ' Ignitor ' is usually the easiest way to go ~ everything still looks and works the same only better and routine replacement parts like caps , rotors and wires , are easy to get , they're the same . As the ignition system is driven to it's maximum output , you can (and should) open the spark plug gaps up wider , this creates hotter sparks , hotter sparks mean better , more complete combustion , these things mean more power , easier starts hot or cold , better idling (even in old worn out engines) and increased fuel economy . As you can see , it's a win-win , no down side atall . Did I mention how much nicer your old nail will drive with breakerless ignition ? If you have a V-8 , it *might* be cheaper and easier to grab an OEM HEI dizzy & wires from any old junker engine you see lying around . Back to your original question , you are talking about and running , a 12 volt ballasted ignition system now , correct ? .
Assumption is a 12 volt system with points and a ballast resistor. If not, ignore everything below. Sounds to me like the ballast resistor and coil are not matched. With ignition on, but engine not running ... ... If points are closed normal voltage at the coil + terminal will be about 7-10 volts. ... If points are open normal voltage at the coil + terminal will be about 12 volts. Your 5-6 volt reading indicates that the resistance of the ballast resistor is about 1.2 times the resistance of the coil primary. Typically, the ballast resistor should be around 0.33 times (or one third of) the resistance of the coil primary.
I replaced 235 engine in my 56. The new engine came out of a 59. The ignition is the old one and was working fine. I did replace the starter and it had the extra lug on the side. I just ran a wire from that lug to the +coil.I assume when I engage starter it will throw 12v to coil. with key on and points closed, I am getting 5.9v to coil. There is a wire coming from switch to starter hot lug. I also assume this is coming thru ballast and giving me the 5.9v as mentioned. thanks...andy
