I am going to put a '55 rear end in my '53 and use the original '53 leaf springs. Since the center of the leafs or offset forward of center line of the wheel wells do I turn the leafs around to get them more towards center or do I make a plate to atatch to the perches to make up for the offset. Any one with experiance or ideas would be appreciated..photos even better! Thanks Chris
Spring Service Since you need to replace the spring eye bushings anyway , flip 'em 'round 180? and see for your ownself . I've been told repeatedly this is the thing to do but you have to remove them n matter what so have at it and let us know how it works out .
Thanks for the reply Nate I may try it ....I also found this from earlier this month posted by Coilover about drilling the holes one and a half inches foward of center in the new perches. I asume you would also have to drill a hole forward on the plate that is on bottom of spring that the U bolts attatch to?? If this will work then I won't have to 180 the springs. 52wasp View Public Profile Send a private message to 52wasp Find More Posts by 52wasp Add 52wasp to Your Contacts 06-01-2013, 05:19 PM #34 coilover Registered User Join Date: Mar. 30, 2005 Location: Plano US Posts: 1,500 Zig, It sounds as though the guys have you aimed in the right direction for mounting a rear end in correctly. Here's how we do it along with a bit of explanation. Roll rear end under truck and have wheel/tire combo on it that will be used. If using stock AD springs drill hole in saddle for spring center bolt 1 1/2" FORWARD of stock location. this will move the axle back and center the wheel in the fender opening much better. Measure the gap between outside of frame rail and tire on both sides and make the same. From a known point on both sides measure to the center of the axle tube and square up as necessary so the rear doesn't "dog walk". Place mounting saddles, we get them from a place that builds trailers, and install and just snug tighten the U-bolts with the pinion aimed too far DOWN. Lower truck and have it's FINAL weight on the rear end before adjusting pinion angle. Now use an angle finder (very cheap) on any surface that is perpindicuar to the crankshaft and measure that angle---usually 91-94 degrees but can vary in custom engine mounting. Two easy surfaces to get to are the front of the harmonic balancer (make sure rubber isn't squished out) and the starter mount face of the bellhousing. DO NOT use the end of the transmission out put shaft as this sags when the driveshaft yoke is removed. Finally put a slow moving jack under the front of the pinion housing and slowly jack it up till the angle meter now placed across the ears of the pinion yoke show it to be 1 to 2 degrees DOWN from the crankshaft angle. It should move even with the U-bolts snugged up. This is enough for non racing use. Tack weld the saddles to the housing, remove, and weld. The theory behind a slight downward angle is to prevent U-joint bearing flat spots by rotating the needle bearings in the U-joints and also the driveshaft yoke will be pushed further onto the transmission shaft when accelerating or pulling a heavy load from a stand still. A shaft set at zero or above zero will in the first instance not rotate the needle bearings and secondly the yoke will be pulled out of the splines on the trans shaft rather that pushed deeper. I just did this job this morning on a 52 short bed. Took 2.5 hrs. start to finish including making the saddles. __________________ Evan
Rear Springs I'm cheap & lazy (typical Farm Boy) so I'd try my way first as the spring eye bushings ARE BAD and need replacing . That being said , Evan's Hot Rod building experience far out strips my regular repair knowledge .
Maybe Coilover can chime in here on this question. I understand the forward hole on the new saddle or attatching a plate to the saddle with a forward hole . But I am not sure what to do about the plate on the bottom of the springs that the U bolts attatch to .If I am going to use u bolts that go over the axle then I would have to make a plate on bottom of spring that would have a a hole forward for the spring bolt???But then this lower plate would would have a big gap btween the spring because the small leaf is not long enough.
The locating pins in 55 1st springs are pretty close to dead center between the front and rear spring eyes. I don't think flipping them is going to accomplish what you want.
