Wanted to get your guys' opinions on replacement metal. I have read that the patch panels (floorboards, cowls, etc) are pretty good, from LMC. Wondering if anyone has ordered the front and rear fenders, and if so, what was needed for a "perfect" fit? After taking mine off, there is a significant amount of rust/crumpling that I did not see before. I dont think I want to take on the task of repairing them myself (no bodywork experience), and I'm quite sure that a shop doing the repairs would end up running me just as much or more than new fenders. I would rather save that money for paint and parts. Any experiences, good or bad?
I have not used the front fenders from Truck shop, or our host (probably the same parts) but I have seen them and they look pretty good. I have installed a rear fender and it went right on.
i got a front fender off joe mothertrucker. but i put cab corners in my truck. was a bit of work but i have a welder and im an ex-bodyman. (and it still was some work)
Good to hear. My thinking was I would rather have straight fenders to start with, rather than pay for these to be fixed, and hope that there are no issues with the repairs.
Was it a used fender, or new one? Im looking at picking up a Hobart welder here in the next couple of weeks. Just put the 220v 50a outlet in the garage last week. Really leaning toward spending the money on all new fenders unless I hear any strong opinions otherwise.
i bought used ones. if you can, buy new ones and save the aggravation. i have a 220v miller. love the thing.
I got a Right Rear fender from here, Classic Parts, and it came in in perfect condition. Have not yet done any fitting, but it appears to be a good replacement. I had my front fenders repaired at a body shop, and it cost $350 each.... They were typical old fenders, with the lower front bashed in, hammered out, and bashed again, but they didn't have a lot of rust, so the body shop had their work cut out for them. The main difference in cost, was the shipping on the new rear fender. ($157.00) I just didn't have one rust free enough to try.
I hope you aren't serious about expecting a "perfect" fit. From the factory the AD trucks and everything else right after WWII had terrible coachwork---including Cadillac. Buyers were lined up, cash in hand, to buy ANYTHING. If trucks kept you warm in the winter and dry in the rain that's all that was expected. We have done near perfect panel fitting on an AD but it's way more than what anyone that's actually going to drive one would spend if not insane. Pictures show a 37 Business Coupe and the bracing needed to get exact gaps, body line, and panel fit. Figure 200 hours at $50 per. Also pictures of a panel fitted 49 (orange) and a factory 53 (green). Would you pay ten grand more for the body of the orange one for "perfection".
Body work should be fun. You see what you have, you know what needs to be done. You try to do that. Dollies make it easier, then Bondo for a skim coat makes it "fine". I am loving the challenge to make little dents go away. Fun stuff!
Maybe the word decent would have been a better term. Just don't want to get replacements that are inches off.
I havent been able to find a keg of root beer to run through my kegorator, so I'll stick to the beer. Although the kid did want me to put Capri Sun on tap.
"Decent fit". Now you're talking old truck talk. The rears are usually pretty straight forward to work with but the fronts to hood to cowl and fenders are sometimes a tester. A search will turn up the pages in the GM assembly manual that have good info. What we do, BEFORE the engine is in, is to bolt the fenders in place and then set the hood on with no hinges or latch in place. This gives the fit of the panels before they are influenced by any of the attaching hardware. If the gaps are off after installing the hinges or latch then it's not the panels fault. Now to the missing engine; one of the younger more limber guys gets inside the engine bay and holds the hinges in place. If the bolts can start then all is well and if not mods can be made so they will. Much easier when you can SEE what's happening. The diagonal firewall to inner fender lip rods are often overlooked for adjustment but the factory put adjusting threads on them for a reason.
Absolutely....................... NOT Great post, the photos really make the point. These are trucks, utilitarian vehicles that were purpose built. Embrace that and everything else falls into place.
Body Works Evan Said " If trucks kept you warm in the winter and dry in the rain that's all that was expected. " Well , sort of ~ the doors often had terrible gaps from new and usually leaked in heavy rain storms , also well remember the ice cold wind blowing in around the passenger doors upper front run . As long as the doors close well , IMO it's good to go .
