OK, I have several questions,I appreciate any input you may have. 66 Chevy Stepside SWB 400+ HP Motor, Turbo 350 tranny w 2800 stall converter. I have swapped the front end for a 78 chevy with disk brakes, the rear end from a 68 chevy to get all 5 hole lugs which is being converted to disk brakes, 12 bolt rear end. I want to lower it as much as i can and get better traction in the rear to hook up the big motor. What tires wheels size ya think? 6" frnt 10" rear or all same and what can i get by with Should I 4 link it and ait bags? for traction of course Drop coils only? drop spindles up front? I'll ask about brake system later, hehe Gimme ytour best opniopn of what youve done and what you like or dislike, I am ready to do some welding before going to powdercoater
I had an 89 gmc shortbed with air bags and it was cool, but I didn't like it when I sprang a leak and was stuck by the side of the road. It takes awhile and some soapy water to find a leak. I am just starting to tear down my 60 chevy SB stepside and I will be using drop spindles and shortened coils on a 72 front end (4 1/2") and a c notch and shortened coils on a 12 bolt rear (5"). At least that is my plan so far. I really want to make this a cruiser and I don't want to get stuck by the side of the road for a system that really only allows you to put it on the ground while your sitting still. At this point in my life what's under the hood is of more importance than airbags. What do the rest of you guys think?
I am 36 and feel the same way, no air for me i have made up my mind. I think i'm going to lower it with coils, I talked ot my local front end guy and he said drop spindles or coils, dont matter he can align them all
>I am 36 and feel the same way, no air for me i have made up >my mind. I think i'm going to lower it with coils, I talked >ot my local front end guy and he said drop spindles or >coils, dont matter he can align them all Trust me. Drop spindles are the best way to go. Your guy may say he can align it, but at what cost to you ? There will be so many shims in that upper control arm you won't believe it ! And it will still result in a negative camber that will wreak havoc on your tires. Your guy may say he can align it but tuning dynamic camber angles is one of the black arts of suspension tuning. Also, lowering more than 2 inches in front with springs alone will not leave you with a pleasent ride quality. I used 2 1/2 drop spindles with a one inch drop spring for 3 1/2 inch front drop. The ride is MUCH better than it was at the factory ride height and the drop while not laying frame, IS a very capable daily driver. I could still go another inch lower with a two inch spring and still have a good ride and a normal number of shims in the front end. Spend the money. Use drop spindles and a disk brake conversion in conjunction with drop springs. DVal
After talking to a few more buds today, I've decided to do as you talk about> i agree, and since were doing it show quality, i dont want a bunch of shims under there. Hey,I was thinkning of doing the tube a frames, any ideas of those. All this just delays progress for funds, but oh well. You have any tricvks on getting the old bushings out of the stock a frames, Ive tried beating, banging, heating, cutting to no evail
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Jun-23-05 AT 10:31 AM (CST)]Tube frame ? No. But here is one that is on the far side of outragious from a frame builder of solid reputation with a racing heritage. http://www.jimmeyerracing.com/pu2.html Just re-read your post and I think you were asking about tube a-arms. Jim Meyer also makes a weld-in crossmember with the same suspension as the frame above. Personally, I would not use replacement tube a-arms. There are a NUMBER of them out there that are inferior in quality. The front suspension is something you want to be rock-solid. Your butt is riding on it. There is no real advantage to using replacement tube a-arm either. Not enough to make me want to risk my butt anyway. If you are going for sex appeal on a show truck, consider the weld in, or bolt-in, front crossmember from Jim Meyer or other reputable suppliers. That will give you tube control arms, rack and pinion steering and coil-over or Air-Ride Technology Shock-Wave springs. After the sticker shock you may decide that you don't want to pay that much for sex. Me either !! On the bushings, I'm assuming you mean the rubber ones. When all else fails, take the flame wrench to them. For your own safety and the health of others nearby, remove the component, a-arms or trailing arms from the vehicle. Take them OUTSIDE to a far corner of the property, and take a hand held flame producer like a Bernz-o-Matic to the bushing in question. CAUTION: This will produce SMOKE, a lot of SMOKE. So do not attempt this inside a garage ! DVal
66 KUSTOM AS FAR AS DOING A FOUR LINK, THERES NO NEED, YOU ALREADY HAVE TRAILING ARMS THAT WILL DO THE SAME. IF YOU REALLY HAVE THAT MUCH POWER YOU CAN BUY TRAILING ARM REINFORCMENTS FOR EARLY ENTERPRISES, DROP THAT 12 BOLT AND SLIDE IN A SEMI SHORTEND 9INCH. SELL THE STEP SIDE AND AND TUBE A SHORT FLEETSIDE FOR MORE WHEEL SPACE. YOU WONT HAVE AS MUCH AS A FOUR LINK OR INSET SPRING CONVERSION, BUT YOULL HAVE PLENTY FOR 400HP. YOULL HAVE TO HAVE YOUR WHEELS OFFSET OF COURSE. FOR GOOD TRACTION YOU WANT AT LEAST 12 IN THE REAR AND IF YOU WANT TO GO TRAILER QUEEN QUALITY I WOULD SUGGEST LEAVING THE FRONTS OEM. I AGREE 100% WITH DV ON THE WAY TO DROP YOUR TRUCK, I JUST FINISHED A 4 FRONT 6 REAR DROP USING THE LOWERED SPRINGS, DROP SPINDLES, AND RELOCATING KIT WITH THE TRICK ADJUSTABLE PAN HARD BAR. WHAT A RIDE!!!! I SIT REAL LOW AND IT FEELS REAL GOOD. I SUGGEST CHECKING OUT EARLY CLASSICS (NO OFFENSE TO OUR HOST THEY HAVE A PERFECT LOWERING KIT EVERYTHING YOU NEED INCLUDING ALL BRAND NEW DISC CONVERSION WITH DUAL MASTER CYLINDER AND PRE BENT BRAKE LINES YOULL DEFINETLY NEED TO BE RUNNING DISCS. GOOD LUCK HEY DV HOWS IT GOING
if you want to go real low check out www.fatmanfab.com .ive got the same setup as dennis.but id like to be lower.
>After talking to a few more buds today, I've decided to do >as you talk about> i agree, and since were doing it show >quality, i dont want a bunch of shims under there. > >Hey,I was thinkning of doing the tube a frames, any ideas of >those. All this just delays progress for funds, but oh well. >You have any tricvks on getting the old bushings out of the >stock a frames, Ive tried beating, banging, heating, cutting >to no evail Snap-ON makes a real good bushing press, Looks like a heavy duty C-clamp w/adapters for differant bushing. Hook an impact on it and zip them out and back in. No sweat, no bending up your A frames. Tool makes changing U-joints a breeze too! Sparkplugc
