So I went to drive my 52 around my yard to the back to pull out that tree every thing was great. I go out to drop off my mulch back there and notice that my brake pedal felt different. I used Nates method of high and tight. So when it got to pushing the pedal past 3/4 I would adjust the huck brakes. I always pump the pedal to try out the brakes before I start it just habit I guess. The pedal goes to about 1/2 before stopping... Hmm not normal. So I pull up the floor and check the level in the MC. Its basically dry sucking in air... I check it about every other month its always been fine. So i have a problem... Its been about 3-5 years since I re-did all the brakes. Not sure what failed but something did. Now to go find out where I'm loosing fluid. Hopefully I will get to this soon as I drive this truck at least 3 days a week. Why because its fun Just goes to show that if you think something feels different when it comes to brakes make sure to see why! I will post up what I find stay tuned.
Brake Fluid Loss When I was driving open brake systems , I found that every 5 +/- years some seal would begin to weep and I'd wind up rebuilding or replacing them all for safety's sake . Just scrootch underneath the rig and lift the bloom edge of the MC's dust boot & look for wetness then yank one wheel at a time until you fine the one with the fluid dripping...
You replaced all the old brake line too, right? I'll never forget finding that pinhole leak in my line that would have been SO bad if I had kept driving my truck! Good luck getting this solved.
Nate that is good to know. Yeah that is my plan. I hope to get to it soon. I may just have to take off of work to do it but its so nice out sunny and 75 I need to be driving my truck Paul, yeah everything is new. Your backing plates and all parts All new brake lines and hoses, MC and all wheel cylinders. So yeah everything was new around 5 years or so ago. I'm so glad that i noticed it now. I still can stop its just not right, and for how long would be the question... I was really surprised to see it empty and still a pedal that got hard a little less then 1/2 way down. But when I had it really high and tight, yeah its a difference... On a side note when I have the rear wheels off I may try to replace some weeping axles seals...
Axle seals Oh my how those axle seals have been a thorn in my side. I have replaced the right rear three times and it is weeping again. I have tried the newer rubber seals and older NOS leather seals. The rubber seal failed right away. The leather seal on the driver side has been holding for at least five years, but the passenger side has been very problematic. I even soaked the leather seal for two days to make sure it was nice and soft before installing it. I have noticed some pitting on the sealing surface of the axle due to what I would guess is water from years past and sitting for who knows how long before I got the truck. I suspect that is the culprit although there is no rust around the pitting and the pitting is really mild. But, that has to be the problem. Not sure if there is a cure for that other than welding up the pits and re-machining the seal surface of the axle to spec. It doesn't really matter to me though as the stock rear end is slated to come out pretty soon in favor of a Nova rear with 3.08:1 gears. I'm also converting to disc brakes in the front and obviously converting the back end of my 4-speed to an open end instead of torque tube to accommodate the Nova rear. On a side note, I hope you have the shop manual as removing the axles to replace the seals requires pulling the cover off the rear end and dismantling the rear end partially. The spacer block and pin have to be removed between the axles in the rear and the c-clips that hold the axle in place have to be removed as well in order to pull the axles. It's a tedious and time-consuming job and you have to position the gears properly so the pin and block can just come out without allowing the spiders to fall out of position in the rear once the spacer block is pulled free (it's a real bitch getting them back in place...ask me how I know). It is all described very well in the shop manual. I have done the job enough times to know how that goes, unfortunately. Good luck Andy
Rear Axle Weeps & Seeps Leather seals are always the best but are getting harder to find . FWIW , once in a while you can add " PP " to the end of your bearing's part number , if available this will give you a sealed bearing ~ a handy thing indeed when dealing with balky old rear wheel bearings that refuse to stop weeping . Also , a thin coating of RTV around the outer perimeter of the bearing before you knock it into place , this staunches the weeps coming between the bearing and the axle housing. I also have Vintage Driver's from Jolley Old Englande where apparently the oil isn't supposed to stay inside...... Maybe it retards the rust ? I dunno but I hate oil weeps & seeps , I was able to make air cooled VW's oil tight so I gave it a go on my Metropolitan Nash FHC , I've gotten the engine nearly oil tight and the rear brakes have nary a drop weeping thanx to the # 207PP bearings I fitted to the floating rear axles . Dry rear brake shoes not only stop better but they parking brake actually hold on steep grades too .
Thanks guys! I have had the axles out a few times but its been a few years now. I will look into a shop manual. Mine isn't a torque tube, as its 3/4 ton. Not sure what is different with the seals, but again thanks for the tips and incite. I always need it
Well I had a chance to dig into my leak. Looked like my main problem was my drivers rear wheel cylinder. It wasn't leaking bad, but dripping just a little. My other rear side looked to be a bit wet as well. So two new rebuild kits later and its back in business. While I was in there I checked the entire system as well, and glad I did as the bottom pivot point was froze up as well, meaning that rear driver brake wasn't working correctly if at all. So I got that fixed up as well. While I was in there I went ahead and replaced my weeping axle seals as well. I haven't filled up the rear end yet to check but I am sure they will be better. So I got everything buttoned back up and bled. I went through one round of adjustment, but it will need another. I like that pedal high as high as I can without rubbing and tight! Not a big deal, just need to find the time to do it. I also need to check the fronts but I am fairly sure I found my problem. The Master cylinder and all the lines look great still.
I found my pin hole coming up to a stop sign on a hill. Pedal went to the floor, engine stalled and luckily the person behind me sensed I needed room to go backwards. Rolled it into a small parking lot, looked it over and drove it home a few miles with no brakes. Country road and no stop signs. Replaced the complete brake lines/master cylinder with new and a dual master. Tightens you up where you sit.
Got the brakes adjusted on all 4 corners again. Now the pedal is high and tight again! Since I was under the truck might as well grease it up as well. I have a few that won't take grease. Anyway what do you guys recommend to do for those grease zerks that don't take grease? I tried cleaning them out with a small wire and no go. Do you just replace them? Thanks fellas
Grease zerks Hey Wolfman You could take them of use a needle to open up then blow air through them , it might work. Most likely the kuggel on top has become rusty and replacing them would be much easyer. Martinius.
Clogged Zerk Fittings HEAT them , use care ~ I use a flame but I also keep my chassis fairly grease free ~ a grease fire can be *very* hard to put out so maybe a hair dryer . Heat it slowly as it takes time to soften up the old rock hard grease . Any time I replace worn out Zerks , I always get a bag full of various angled ones as often changing to a 45 or 90 degree angle makes the greasing easier and if it's easier , you'll do it more often and a better job of it too . I always inject new grease until I see fresh grease mushing out , then I wipe up all the mess so the chassis remains clean .
Thanks for the tips. I never thought about heat... Would a small propane torch be too much? I think I will go get some various new zerks as well. I will pop one off to make sure I get the right size. Also cleaned out the oil air filter! Popped the rotor off the dizzy it still looks good! Added a few drops of oil to the felt part on the shaft under the rotor. Also refiled the grease cup on the side of the dizzy. I do a 1/4 turn on that one every so often, usually once a month or so. So it was a fun day on the old truck. My oldest son is coming out today with me, he's excited I forgot to mention that O'Reilly's by my place is just great. I popped in to see if they might have my wheel cylinders. Nothing in stock so I went to LMC down the road. Anyway I mentioned that I had new axle seals and if they could put them in. Kid said sure my grandpa taught me how to do those. I took my hubs and new seals to the back and he pulled my old ones off and pressed in the new ones. Did a great job and for free. Turns out the kid had been working on a 37 chevy hot rod for years. I say kid I would say he was 18-21. Anyway I thought that was really nice of him to help me out even when I didn't buy those seals from him either.
Heating Zerks Yes ; I use a propane torch just BE CAREFUL ! . A garden hose isn't going to snuff a grease fire . Looky here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/131059143272?forcerRptr=true&item=131059143272&frommaketrack=true&viewitem= Classic DIVCO milk wagon ~ I was in Boston recently and looked at a 1966 Divco for $6.5K , I doubt very much you could buy and restore one for under $25K, making this a grand bargain *if* you like it . I imagine it'd make a great Shop Truck and Moto Hauler , even with the stigma if being Brand "F" powered . I gotta be firm , don't need another truck.......
Cool deal there Brian! Keep that old rig of yours hauling heavy stuff and keeping everyone else (including that son of yours) smiling! LCM just down the street... Some people!
