My '50 half ton project is now seriously underway. I have worked suspension, brakes, bearings, seals, etc., and I am now working the interior and the electrical. So far, so good. However, as I get into the electrical (which is not my strong suit) I am finding that many of the wires are brittle and broken (breaking). I have secured a new wiring harness from our host and will start working the installation in the coming weeks. This brings me to my question and search for knowledge from the "Classic Parts Talk" members and readers: How can I confirm the voltage application on this truck? The battery is a 12 volt and there is an old style ceramic resistor on the firewall and wired into the system. The truck has a generator rather than an alternator. The only fuses I find are for the brake lights (mounted on the firewall) or in-line for the heater and lighter. I would not only like to do this right but learn something along the way. Kind words of wisdom would be most welcome.
First off, welcome to the forum and I love the truck! Thanks for sharing the photos. If your battery is a 12V unit and you have a resistor in line with the ignition coil, I'm inclined to believe that you have a 12V electrical system. It would be best to see if you can find a data tag on your generator to confirm this. I suppose it's possible someone tossed a 12V battery and a resistor to sell the truck. Is the generator even hooked up? The voltage regulator should be on the fire wall on the driver's side of the engine bay. It should be marked 6V or 12V as well, take a peek. Hope this helps! Damon
Thanks Damon, I appreciate your comments and suggestion. I will get after it later today and let you know what I find.
Ceramic resistor & other questions Hey there and welcome I would toss out the ceramic resistor as it is not ment for a 12 volts system. They use to get pretty hot when connecting them in your new system. You dont need them. There is one important fuse Connector you should have between the coil and the main ignition swith Connection wire is colored in red normally. An extra fuse Box on you torpedo wall or better inside the cabin to have controll over Power use for light and other functions is to recommend. I always recommend People to install a dead mans switch-off Connector inside the cabin within hand reach. There are el.wiring diagrams available at old chevy truck manuals.com . Good Luck With Your Nice truck , friendly regards Martinius. P.s. Nice looking area in the picture
If you are already 12v. I reccommend an IC64 coil from NAPA, it is 12v internally resisted. You can remove the ceramic resistor block and run 12v straight to the coil. Those are the only fuses from the factory...scary, huh? Most of the wires from this era are cracking and brittle. They all need replacing or constant patching. Rewiring is not as difficult as it may seem. Take your time and plan out your routing, take it one section at a time. The only really difficult project is usually the turn signal switch, depending on what switch you may have you can download a wiring diagram. Look at my how to techs...https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=17990
Thanks Martinius, I appreciate your comments and suggestions. The wiring harness initially looks challenging, however, as I took time to lay it out on the counter it started to look logical. I will keep everyone posted.
Ignition Coils # 1 : ALWAYS test the impedance across the two little coil connectors to match it to your power source and ignition system ~ if you have a 9 V ballasted power source you need the 1.6 Ohm coil . If you have a 12 V. power source to the coil you need a 5 Ohm coil . # 2 ; Epoxy coils are the very best and don't suffer the vibration caused failures cheaper coils do . # 3 : no matter how basic , mundane or cheap , use some sort of breakerless ignition system , not points .
It's been discussed here several times... The Pertronix breakerless ignition module is Superb! About $120.00 If I remember correctly. Installs in literally 15 minutes, and starts right off every time, and idles great. Nate has expounded on Pertronix' Greatness on more than one occasion... If budget permits, it's a real good upgrade. (2 cents).
Here is a tech thread on the Pertronix.... https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?p=87743#post87743
