Valve Settings I like .014" Intake & .020" Exhaust ~ do 'em cold then once it's running and bistering hot go back & do 'em again . Then go back and do one last check & adjust in 1,000 miles , then it should be good for annual or 10,000 mile intervals . There's a detailed tutorial I wrote on this a while back , it's in the archives , maybe try searching " valve adjustment " or " routine valve adjustment" .
Finally got time to do the tappits... They were all to tight.. Now she runs heaps better.. Also got rego this week... So I am road legal.. Yay .. Love the old girl more.. Also in other BIG news I picked up a running 1937 Chev... Right hand drive.. Built in the Holden factory in Australia ... Wife wanted it for her birthday...
Oh forgot to ask.. Anyone got a part number for a front main seal on a 1949-1950.... 216 engine??? Not original part number but a national oil seal number or the like... Seems they leak after 64 years.... Lol
Routine Service This is why so many are tight : they're silent when they get tight so no one believes they're out of adjustment . Remember to go back and check them after a couple hundred miles of running . Have you checked and adjusted the points gap/dwell angle yet ? this too drifts and needs checking , I always use a dwell meter and adjust them " On The Fly " as that compensates for 50 + years of distributor wear . Then set the ignition timing dead bang to ball on pointer and be amazed at how much power is in that tiny 1930's tech engine . Spark plugs must have *perfectly* square shoulders on the center electrodes and .035" gaps . When do we get to see the '37 Chevy ? is it a Coupe or Sedan ? 2 or 4 doors ? . -Nate
It's another right hand drive Holden built truck gross weight on the tag is 11300 pounds... She is in need of a few things but it runs sweet as... If anyone has a DS window regulator for sale ..... I need a complete one.. I tried to get the oil seal for the front main today but no good with that number supplied.... Anyone else got any numbers??
Oil Seal P/N Just go look it up on NAPA , Autozone , kragen etc. I can't , something's amis with my 'puter to - day this is the *only* site who's pages are loading for me . Ask again to - morrow and I'll see what I can do .
I wish the ones that come into our shop were half as nice as yours. I see GM left the E-brake on the right side of the shifter which when sitting on the right would take some getting used to. If the headliner is factory then the Aussie built ones are way better than the saggy maggies the U.S. built. I guess the extra small lights on the front fenders, which don't look original, are add on turn signals. Our host (and others) sell dual socket contacts and bulbs to have both signal and park lamps in the factory location. Great truck!
Thanks mate... Yep hood lining is still original... And the firewall one too.., pity the glovebox didn't make it ..., but I will make an alloy one and hide a stereo in there I think. Found out today that the crank seal is the same as a 350 small block.., so I can get one local ... Now to find a 1937 window regulator....
