Front wheel spacers.

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Sad54, Jan 20, 2014.

  1. Sad54

    Sad54 Member

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    Nov 8, 2009
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    Location:
    Fairfield, IL
    I am using an S10 chassis under my 54 3100 with a blazer rear end with disc brakes. What front wheel spacers do I need? I have read several posts and find nothing definite. Any facts would help.
     
  2. 52wasp

    52wasp Member

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    Jul 21, 2006
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    Wilton, New Hampshire
    it depends...

    Before you can say what you need for a spacer, there are a series of things you must determine FIRST.

    Original wheel? Then the "spacer" is an adapter from 5x4.75 (S10) to 6x5.5 (AD truck wheel). Make SURE you select one which is HUB-centric AND lug-centric at the HUB AND the WHEEL.

    5-lug (on a 4.75dbc) wheel? You may be able to buy a wheel with the correct offset. Or you'll need a spacer with its own lugs. Make SURE you select one which is HUB-centric AND lug-centric at the HUB AND the WHEEL.

    Notice the importance of Hub-centric hub-to-adapter AND hub-centric adapter-to-wheel. Yes, they cost more. No, ones that are NOT hub-centric on BOTH will not be satisfactory.

    On my project I mocked this up by purchasing and installing longer studs, and making plywood spacers to locate the wheels I chose in the (rear in this case) fenders. Once I arrived at a number (math), I used the correct thicknesses of plywood to achieve the number (my number is not the same as your's will be). IMPORTANT---> the long wheel studs are NOT for adding a spacer, they are for the mockup ONLY. I will remove them, and re-install the original studs to accept spacers with their own set of studs. (studs in axle fasten spacer, studs in spacer attach wheel).

    Then it is simply MATH to determine what the spacing IS, and what it needs to BE.

    Thats the "facts".

    good luck!
     
  3. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Measure thrice, buy once.

    When it comes to wheel fitment issues there really is no substitute to getting out there under the fender and measuring what you have.

    This is especially true on a 60 year old vehicle with non original frame, non original brakes, non original suspension and non original tires and wheels.
     
  4. 52wasp

    52wasp Member

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    Lakeroadster is on the money.

    Let's say you have a wheel/tire combo already (and for the sake of argument, let's say it has the correct bolt pattern), and you'd like to know how much spacer you'll need to get it to fit.

    The most accurate way to verify fitment would be to install said wheel/tire ON the vehicle, and with the coil spring REMOVED, cycle the suspension from on-the-lower-snubber, to on-the-upper-snubber (using a floor jack). Do this with the wheels turned full left, full right, and all the combinations in-between. Upon completion of this task, repeat on the other side of the vehicle. Then and only then, will you know your rolling stock will "fit". Installing longer wheel studs to facilitate the usage of temporarary spacers for this exercise would be helpful.

    FYI, the original 6.50-16 tire is 29.3 inches tall.
     
  5. Sad54

    Sad54 Member

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    Nov 8, 2009
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    Location:
    Fairfield, IL
    Sounds to me that I am a bit premature on determining what spacers to use. I should really have the cab and fenders set to do the job right. Thanks for your knowledge. PS I plan on using 15"X 7" GM rally wheels. We'll see. Thanks again.
     
  6. coilover

    coilover Member

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    Mar 30, 2005
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    2,564
    Location:
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    Have used many rally wheels so know the back spacing is close to 3 1/2" which will take a 2 1/4" spacer to put the tire back into the factory location. We like steel spacers but they are harder to find and a bit more pricey than the aluminum ones nearly everyone offers. If your rally's have a 4.75 bolt pattern then it's a snap since that is what the 2wd S10's have and the 5 holes for nuts to bolt to the hub and the five sheel mounting studs will be evenly spaced---much easier than going from one pattern to a different one. We followed the routine Mike suggested on the first S10 conversion and used nearly the same approach except for lumber instead of plywood.
     

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