I've been complaining that my truck (52 GMC 3/4 ton) was a bit skittish over 60 MPH. Measured this morning. Instead of the prescribed 1/8" toe in, I found 5/16" toe out. Busted a few knuckles trying to get the tie rod to turn. Soaked it with Liquid Wrench and will try again tomorrow. I'm a bit concerned about using a torch on the connection given the close proximity of the grease-packed joint nearby. I guess I could remove the tie rod and tie rod ends (they are the old style with the big ball), degrease aand work on them on my bench in a vise. Any of you have additional suggestions??
I like the bench vice idea. A little propane-torch heat should not hurt, leave the Oxy-Acetalene alone. Mix auto trans fluid with diesel fuel 50-50 for a good cheap penetrating fluid. I'm surprised your truck did not pull to one side or the other with toe-out, usually they pull to the right due to the crown of the road. They usually also waller all over the place if the roads are grooved by those pesky heavy trucks, HA HA.
My mother doesn't let me use sharp knifes, pointed scissors or ink pens. Too many permanent mistakes. I'll add oxy-acetylene torches to the list. I do have a propane torch.
Just my two cents... but I don't believe propane is going to get hot enough to do anything. An oxy-acetylene torch with a small tip and the right settings will make quick work of the rusted part and, as long as you're careful, won't ignite your grease. Even so, it's wise to have a little water or a fire extinguisher near by. Damon
What kind of Texan are you anyway spelling rountuit like that? Next it will be barbed wire instead of bob war. Bill, the very best stuff for frozen parts is Kroil. Just a few drops and it creeps into anything. Heat wouldn't hurt a thing unless the joints are brand new. Older ones need to be disassembled and checked anyway since many times the ball is no longer a sphere and the shank is cut into. The concave cups wear at the contact with the shank and many times the springs are broken. The felt seal is usually long gone and is the only thing heat (flame) would get to. Easily replaced.
Grease fire? Please, Water on a grease /gasoline/oil fire does not work. Grab that ABC fire extinguisher. Ask me how I know. Jerry
I believe Evan was talking about the drakg link . He's right , get some Aero Kroil and spray it on the threads , tap a few times to help it wick in and let soak , you'll be amazed at how easily the previously frozen parts now move .
The small quantity of grease in a ball joint can safely be extinguished with a half-glass of water... done it many times. Being in the biz for a living, I know it's not ideal, and not even recommended... but using an ABC dry chemical extinguisher can cause uber harm to shop and vehicle equipment in the long run. The chemical is very corrosive and nearly impossible to remove from sensitive electronic components such as radios, computers, welders, etc. The chemical will cause these electronic components to fail. I should have been more specific with my first post, I apologize. I was dog-tired last night after hanging steel paneling in my shop most of the day yesterday. I committed a no-no by cutting corners and leaving interpretation to the imagination, and I know better. Again, I apologize for the half-story. Damon
Ideally, one would have his/her garage/shop equipped with a multitude of fire extinguishers. 1. A pressurized water can for ordinary combustibles - wood, paper, rubber, etc. 2. A carbon dioxide for grease, oil, motor fuel, and live electrical equipment fires. 3. An ABC dry chemical extinguisher that can handle most any fire (except combustible metals - Class D). Most folks go with the ABC dry chemical with the logic that it will handle any fire they may have. That's fine, but they're probably not aware of the corrosive nature of the chemical extinguishing agent. And if you've ever discharged an ABC dry chemical extinguisher, you well know how unpleasant it is to be in the vicinity for a long time thereafter. Just some after thoughts! Damon
Soap extinquisers and granulated salt. I know this is off topic guys but life is moore then driving old trucks. This is about saving lifes and preventing things to Catch on fire like Your old beloved truck for instance. Some on this forum have had bad experiences with that unfortunately. A short story; My mother in Law whas living next door (rest here soul in peace) and god thank the day when things went wrong we where nearby to help here. In old Norwegian wooden farm houses (200 years old) chimnees are build in spesial ways . The story is that she had been burning all kinds of fat magazine paper in a cast iron oven over longer periodes to litt here wood to fire . The paper peaces litted the tar slag in here chimney and took on fire. It sounded like an airplain turbine when the fire whas eating its way up to the top. Flames where standing some meters high in the sky above the roof .The fire brigade came to help out very quikly , great guys who know there jobs. They used both soap extinquisers and a lot of salt to choke the flames with. God thanks here house did`nt burned Down to the ground. We had to renovate everything inside a 2 Levels house of 270 Squire meters pr. Level. The chimney had to be totally renovated aswell. I`ll think my hart beat whas over nomal during the incident. Sinds then fire extinquisers and water supply is established every where on the farm. Martinius.
Martinius, I've been to flue (chimney) fires exactly like you're describing. The creosote builds up in the chimney from not cleaning it out periodically as one should. Just like our old trucks, a little preventive maintenance goes a long way. Same with periodically inspecting windows and doors to ensure they operate properly, checking extension cords and other wiring for wear in the insulation, etc. The easiest way to extinguish ANY fire is preventing it from happening in the first place. Damon
5/16" toe out will cause a pretty squirrley ride.... Good thing you checked it.... you don't want to wreck another truck. I don't know what the hell chimneys have to do with tie rods ends & front end alignment... but I guess you gotta listen to a some off topic crap before you actually get any kind of relevant useful info. around here I think you were on the right track with your first plan of attack Bill.... I would completely remove the tie rod with tie rod ends attached & separate the tie rod ends from the tie rod while everything is secured in a bench vise.... clean up the threads on the tie rod & re-install the tie rod ends while liberally using anti-seize compound. Once you re-install the tie rod it will then turn "like butter" & make the toe adjustment a breeze.
Working procedure and front wheel alignment. Bill it sounds like you have a good plan working with it in your bench vice. If it does`nt come loose you could try to soak it in a mixture of ATF (auto trans fluid) and aceton 50-50%. It is recommended here at the forum . Clean Your parts and have some copper grease on the threads and your good to go to start the alignment. Spesifications; http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/5071.htm Martinius.
Threads wonder around for a while then come back home sometimes they need a picture, usually it takes only three fire sprinklers to put out a fire but most are out with just one fire sprinkler going off. Modified one hour rated wall separation between the garage and the house help also to save lives, sprinkling salt into a fire in the fire place helps cut the creosote build up, so here's back at yah . . Joe, also here are some of the rides that I really think a lot of hope you enjoy looking at them as much as I do.
There's more to it that that. y'all is singular all y'all is plural all y'all's is plural possessive and all y'all's yawls are sailboats
I agree. One's more than enough. Took it off late this afternoon. I had ATF and Acetone in the garage so I tried the 50/50 mix. I'd fill the slot that the clamp normally covers, tap it a few times with a hammer, put a fair twist (maybe 30-50 ft lbs) both ways on each tie rod end and wait a half an hour before trying again. The passenger's side broke loose after 2 hours. The driver's side took 3 hours. Cleaned up the bits and pieces from the passenger's side. Knocked the crud off the tie rod and passenger's side end and shot some paint on them. Bits and pieces from the driver's side will sit in solvent overnight. Depending on the weather I may be able to get it back together tomorrow. BTW, the round studs on the ends of the steering arms were in great shape.
Steering Fun Sounds like you're on the right track Bill . AS I ran with the Volunteer East Ringe Fire Dept. as a lad , I think chimney fires are always worth mentioning ~ back then pine was cheap or free so folks used it and gummed up the chimney badly with tar , when it ignited we'd get the call and roll out , most of the time we'd use old tire chains and BBQ grilles down the chimney to scrape the flaming gunk loose , no $ for proper fire retardants back then . It was scary and dangerous work no matter how much training they had .
Tuit Remember the Word tuit from Holland wich means the round poring neck end of a can ! Like the onces we use to poor oil in engines with. http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/round_tuit
