vwnate1

RETIRED AT LONG LAST

hello my name is brett first time on this site,i noticed a thread of yours on a post back on 7/3/2012 on a u-joint chevy torque tube drive shaft you mentioned a guy named joe would have the parts that he needed. heres my situation I recently purchased a 1954 gmc 1/2 longbed p.u. from my understanding gmc has a intermediate driveshaft that hooks to torque tube after/thru the bell to torque tube .ive located all parts except the inter driveshaft if you can help or steer me towards locating this part would greatly be appreciated thx brett

I was going to let you know ingot some pictures up of my truck now if you wanna see them

Hi Gary ;


YES ~ AlumaSeal is very good stuff indeed .

If your coolant is red , you'll need to flush it clean and add new green coolant else it won't work well .

-Nate

Nate you appear to be a very knowledgeable guy. My heater core on my 1959 chevy truck is beginning to leak. I know from one of your past post that silver seal is the way to go. Should I try this prior to ripping this out and attempting to repair it. Gary

Thanks. Nate .... Does the wire from the alternator hook into the ignition or does it go to the ammeter gage ?

Howdy, I saw some posts where you commented on the u-joint ball cover gasket/seals. I looked at the kit on this site an the kit appears to have four each of two different seals or gaskets. Can you tell me what's in the gasket set? I saw one of your comments, where you said you did a lenghty post on the ball cover, but I couldn't find it. Thank you! Dave

Nate,on a post of yours about checking the temperature gauge on a 1958 GMC or Chevy you said to ground it from the rocker box screw to the firewall. Where is the rocker box screw? Is it just the threaded part that comes out of the top of the valve cover?Also, your test says it should peg one way and then the other. I have no needle movement at all when I turn the key on with the wire connected to the sender. It doesn't move at all when I disconnect the sender wire either, so does this qualify as pegged. It does peg out to High when I disconnect it and short it to the negative battery terminal. Thanks in advance for any help. Steve

Hi there ... I just bought a 53 3600 with 216 (supposedly rebuilt) ... ran great for the last few months - very quiet - only it used a lot of oil - thought might be normal for an old engine ... but recently started a low sound knocking - mostly under load ... My mechanic is planning to disassemble to find out issue - not smoking but there is oil residue inside the exhaust pipe ... pressure is good and no overheating or power issues ... I have never really "pushed" the engine past about 55 mph and not for long ...
I found a 216 engine that we plan to purchase for $100 - figure can't hurt to get for parts ... but the engine knock is my question ... will it hurt to drive it a short distance to my mechanic (less than 20 miles) or should I not drive at all and have it towed? Any ideas ...? Spark plugs were taken off one at a time during running - no differences ...
BTW - I am a woman Stovebolter! I just love these old trucks! :)

Let me know if you get this reply as there's no " REPLY " button .

I only have a few left , 1960 # 117 DeLuxe Beetle with sliding sunshine roof , 1968 # 211 Parcel Delivery Van .-Nate

Nate, what VW's do you have? I have a 67 Beetle and a 69 Transporter.

Thanks for replying The pitman arm is keyed to the steering box that is why I am so puzzled I will get some photos and send them but in any case thanks so much for the help And have a good holiday season

Nate Thanks again for the help on my steering box problem I am still puzzled by my adjustments I was able to find and set true center on the box to within 4 degrees and then I was able to set toe to 0 ( Steering wheel position did not move) and then I checked the stops(They have pins so really only one setting.) All looks good and straight, but when I turn the wheel to the right I get 1 3/4 turns till it hits the wheel stop and if I turn it to the left I get 2 1/4 turns before I hit the wheel stop. Never once changing the wheel position after I centered it for the initial steering box centering. I am puzzled ??? Did I do something wrong or is this the way the old girl is supposed to be Thanks again for any help in this matter The previous info was great Thanks again

Remember ; if you see even ONE tiny crack , replace all the flex hoses right away ! .

-Nate

Thanks for the hose help nate

Hi Harold ; please let me know if you get this reply , you should have posted to the forums or used PM . anyways , I use isopropal alcohol or aerosol brake cleaner , then blow the lines with air , if you have no compressor , use a cheap bicycle pump . I hope this helps ! . -Nate

Nate:

I saw your 12/09 post about cleaning brake system before changing to DOT5 brake fluid. What kind of alcohol should be used and how do you clean the inside of the metal lines. I have installed all new wheel cylinders and the three rubber hoses and before doing any bleeding thought it would be a goo time to change to DOT5.

Harold Burrows
Williston, TN

Hm ;

I don't see a proper reply button , I hope you get this . ATF has much more detergents than does engine oil so it drains back into the oil cup taking the collected dirt with it... simple , really .

Nate,
I read all your input on oil bath and curious why ATF. You stated it was self cleaning, what does it do better than oil? Thank you for your time.

Nate,

I haven't been on the site lately. I appreciate what you share about these wonderful old
trucks.

Jim Sutherlin