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Hey Woog.. FWIW try a 50/50 mix of ATF / Acetone. Seems to work better than any off the shelf store bought product for penetrating.

Welcome Rava... The rear trailing arms are slightly different on the 3/4 ton trucks but yes swapping coil springs shouldn't be an issue. Optimum handling? Opinions vary.

You don't know me that well.......:confused: Yeah, those will look very nice. I used Impala tail lights (installed upside down) on my '65

1966 Pontiac Lemans / Tempest - Guide 23 STDB 66 T63

Before you notch your frame read through the "Rear Frame Notch" thread, see link in my signature line. There's a lot of ways to notch a frame, but however one chooses to do it, making it at least as strong as factory should be the goal. Is your truck originally from Australia? Good luck with...

I'm glad that worked for you. Feel free to post some photo's or even better, start a build thread for your '69 stepside in the 1967-1972 section of the forum. I'm sure other folks here could benefit from all your efforts.

I like the over / under idea of segregating the wood working and mechanics. As for the depth of the mechanics area, I'd suggest you do a layout using graph paper. A crew cab long bed truck is very long... vs. a 1951 Chevy pickup. So what you anticipate working on will drive the dimensions...

Have you checked to see if the horn wire is pinched somewhere in the column? Check the wire. I'll bet if you put a continuity tester on the end of the wire at the top of the column and then touch anything metal on the truck, the horn will blow. I had this same thing happen on a 1970 Nova...

Welcome to the forum Ethan! Assuming you have coil springs (leaf springs were an option) you should not need lowering blocks, just the coil lowering springs. Check out my build thread link below. I changed my rear coils twice. The standard lowering springs were horribly weak and about the...

That covered bridge photo is sweet...

Your a good man Mike... I'm afraid I'd have packed up my stuff and headed on down the road. ____ John

That should work. My only concern is will the non vented gas cap be liquid tight? If it isn't you may still have gas dripping out since it appears the inlet to the expansion tank is above the gas filler cap.

To gain some confidence.. I'd be inclined to put a vacuum gauge on the fuel pump and check to see how much vacuum the pump can pull. Then build the overflow tank, fill it, and use a hand held vacuum pump to see how much vacuum is needed to evacuate the overflow tank. You'd want a length of...

Yes. But How much vacuum does it take to collapse the fuel tank? and How much vacuum to vapor lock the motor? I'm probably fretting about nothing and wouldn't worry at all... if I was doing this to my own truck. But it's yours... and I'm a bit of a worry wart when it comes to other folks...

Say what? That just doesn't seem logical. Got any volcano's in the area? Just kidding... what are you using to check the temperature? My only concern about this modification is possibility of a vapor lock... or collapsing the fuel tank. Where were you planning to put the vacuum break?

It won't flood it if the expansion tank is large enough. If you think about it only a small amount will auto-syphon, then it will start sucking air and stop. How big are you planning to make the expansion tank?

But this would be better. Can you spin the filler neck so the vent is down?

The line to the expansion tank has to be a dedicate line. This allows the gas in the expansion tank to get sucked back into the gas tank...

Yes. The volumetric thermal expansion for gasoline is = 0.00053 per degree F.. So let's assume 18 gallons of gas and a temperature rise of 70 F. 0.00053 x 18 x 70 = 0.668 gallons You are changing to a non vented cap, right? Personally I would want the fitting you install in the filler hose...

I think girls get taught that in Home Economics class in high school.... Interesting you updated your thread... I was wondering if you ever pulled the trigger on this modification.