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The original horn circuit worked like this: Battery 6V -------------Horn--------------/ -------ground. ........................................................^ ......................................................This...

Don't know what size they are, but our host sells this kit that has enough screws and washers to do both doors.

I'm not able to help, but maybe someone else would. They would probably have a better chance if you said what vehicle the "front clip" was taken from.

Mike: This particular area of the Classic Parts forum concentrates on 1955 to 1959 Chevrolet trucks. They had no upper control arms.

2 solutions I've used to help remind me to shut off the non-cancelling turn signals. 1. Attach a small automotive beeper to the P (pilot) pin on the 3 prong flasher. If you have a 2 prong flasher replace it with a 3 prong unit like a DOT 550 flasher. 2. I've loosened the clamp and turned...

1956 GMCs used the same SM-318 transmission, so I assume (there's that word) that the adjustment is the same. Look HERE It starts there and goes for a few pages.

I have yet to find an obituary for "Coilover", but just to show others Evan's (and his shop's) abilities here are a couple of pictures. First his favorite, his 37 Buick. He drove it all over the country with Dar. Still had a Buick straight 8, but he changed the tranny to a TH-350. A...

Evan Ritter passed last April 8th. Evan (aka "Coilover") was a great asset to this and other old car/truck forums. His wife Dar has since passed also. The Ritter family will be having a memorial service for Coilover and his wife this Saturday (17 Jan 26) at his shop in Trenton, Texas at 3 pm.

Looks like you are in luck with the manifolds Don. Info from GMPartsWiki - Exhaust manifold - casting # 3835587 = GM Part# 3694164, used on ALL Chevy 6 cylinder engines 1955-62 Intake Manifold - casting # 3835590 = GM Part# 3694163, used on ALL Chevy 6 cylinder engines 1950-58 EXCEPT 216...

Don: I don't have much info on Canadian trucks. I'm guessing the engine is a Chevy 261. Smaller GMC trucks of your vintage were equipped with 235 Chevy inline 6 cylinder engine or 283 V8s. Larger trucks had either a Chevy 261 six cylinder engine or a Buick 322 V8. I don't know where the...

Can you read the casting numbers from the manifolds? Most likely be a 7 digit number. They are likely to be the same as '59 Chevy parts. I have some Canadian part numbers somewhere in my garage and have access to many more.

Closest I could find to your 3694508 is 3692708 which is for a 1950-52 Chevy 235. Sometimes casting numbers can be hard to read, but reading a 27 as 45 is not likely.

Not better nor faster. Fresher. Remember, the majority of adults in 1951 smoked. Opening the heater input to outside air and cracking open the wing window would help to clear the smoke out of the cab.

I have no promotional lit. Hot engine coolant (water/antifreeze mix) is pushed into a 3/4" diameter hose by the engine's water pump. The other end of the hose is connected to a small "core" in the heater, similar to the radiator in front of the engine. Coolant is then returned to the engine...

GMC offered 2 heaters as shown below from the '53 GMC Master Parts Book. The one on the top was also known as the "fresh air heater". You remove the panel with 6 screws and bolt the right side of the heater into the hole. The one on the bottom is known as the "recirculating heater".

True for USA made trucks. Post WW2 Canadian made trucks until at least 1959 (newest I have documentation for) used Chevy 6 cylinder and V8 engines, with Buick V8s used in the larger trucks. The picture that 51resurrection posted is a Chevy 6. I said 216 because that is what it would have had...

Your GMC was made in Canada. It was factory equipped with a Chevrolet 216 engine. The "first 3 digits is the engine size" is only true of USA manufactured GMCs.

Not unless: a. you can identify the current shifter's make and model b. the company is still in business, still making the parts and would sell them to you I am far from an expert on '51 Chevy truck transmissions, but if it were me I would do one of the following. c. Find a complete floor...

The shift lever you have now looks to me like a home-brew to me. The shaft appears to be one diameter, instead of tapered like a factory shaft would be. The lack of threads on the top and the lack of ability to clock the bottom of the shaft to the proper position are the problems to be...

Other than being uglier than me, what is wrong with what you have now?