Search results

I found a 65 aluminum T-10. Hopefully it will have the right offset. I really want to keep the juice clutch.

Well the slight rebuild turned into a stroker 383 for the 60. *cough 400Hpcough* let's just say the drive train will changed out very soon! I dont think I have ever heard a transmission scream like a baby before. :eek:

I bought a aftermarket off ebay thru dolphin gauges. My harnes was trashed. most of this hooked right up. I just undled wires up for future additions.

Truly sick! Impressive as all hell! Man I can just imagine that thing launched!!!:eek: WOW!

Well I found out why the original motor is missing...I assume it was from being fried ... ....the windshield leaks like all hell I actually swam home yesterday. It was a rather humerous day. :rolleyes:

What new wiper motors can be retrofitted into a 1960? Rain X is ok but it would be nice to get the wipers working:cool: Any help? The truck has been upgraded to a alternator.

It should be about 4900 to 5123.00 .lbs. Depending on the front suspension and bed material. did they replace the wood and add steel? Also remmeber these trucks were equiped with cast iron transmissions. replaceing it with a lighter automatic transmission makes difference awa as aluminum...

So no one has done this swap?

Sound like you need a rebuild. If you ahve let the truck sit up for any duration the fuel will start leaving varnish and sludge in the fuel bowl. I took a carb off my stang and set it in the garage for 6 months. The fuel in the bowl had left a molasses mess.

Ok I procured a NV-3500 tranny. Clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing still intact. My 60 has the juice clutch with the 420 granny low. From what I have been told that slave cylinder will provide enough pressure to activate the Pressure plate. My 350 is mid 70's. It has three...

tracks are tracks are tracks. What really matters is the track mounting to the floor. Think of the force the seat will go through on a rear or head on collision. Remember you going to strapped to this seat. So re drilling and anchoring the seat down to bare sheet metal is not a good idea...

US body source has one also. But like someone said..cost as much as the truck!

I found a good donor door. Still debating on using it or not BUT I did remove the regulator. Amazing even with 4 stitches in my left (stupid hose clamp) I still managed to install the window crank and regulator and reattach the window....In 30 minutes. The wife just chuckled and said"...

Looks good and sounds like progress. I am going with a similar rim design. I replaced my low beams with fresh bulbs and a new headlight switch. New adjusters....I could hunt buffalo in Montana from here! WOW!

Thanks yeah kinda familiar with the sheetmetal drill spot weld drill.etc. I'll treat the inside areas with ospho to eliminate what little rust we have out here.

It lowers when I put my to pamper mares in it. AFA as made of money. Nope all this is gonna be off a shoe string budget. So far so good. Put new lights and lenses. Looking better every day.

Yup saw that. helps under braking too! Worst thing in the world is to have the rear end come up under load and jack knife the whole mess.

That torsion suspension should be a very well handling front end with good parts and shocks. Drop front with a 2 1/2 drop spindle. Add the RIGHT shocks and maybe a sway bar. Compliment the rear with the a same drop and a rear sway. You would be amazed how well that truck will handle. I am...

Check the catalog on the different kits with the torsion bar front suspension. Personally the kits are worth it. Factor in gas money and time. You will come out way ahead. I pieced the kit together on my own and it does save me anything. The kit saves me time and cash. Also look at...

Adjusting out the drums front and rear will leave you very suprized on how well they work. I did a panic stop the other day. Brakes good check...Tires Bad. The brakes worked well enough to lock up all 4 wheels. :eek: