How to install Trique latch kit.

This is what comes in the kit. Very complete, nice parts, US made.





Cut out the template from the instruction book. Place over half round hole where door striker used to live. Trace the outline on the door.


Cut out hole, I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Now fit the latch plate and mark holes on door face.


Drill holes with 1/4" bit, lower hole to 1", I used a unibit. Also cut hole for linkage to go through...


Grind off the little nub right here...


Mount up latch and plate using hardware provided. I found that I needed a little more clearance(than specified on the template) for the latch to fit easily.


Grind out the rivet that holds the linkage to the actuator.....


Then bolt linkage to latch through the hole you drilled. Don't over tighten, as this is a pivot point.

Then line up the hole with the "v" cut above, test and cut off excess if all fits (it did). Note: you cannot install the top bolt in the actuator, the nut will hit it.


Install outside handle, takes a little finagling. I couldn't get the front mounting screw in, because there is not a lot of movement in the handle before latch triggers.

This is what it all looks like....


I will paint it later.

Here is the striker plate, installed in factory mounts..


How does it work????


Now remove the lock linkage by removing this clip..


Cut the linkage down to next to nothing, as specified in the instructions...I used the grinder.


Re install linkage in the lock, then install in door like origional.


This is a beautiful kit, well worth the money. It is apparent that time was spent getting it right. It is a VERY easy install, probably the easiest aftermarket install I have ever done. Works like a charm the first time out. Everything fits like it should. You could probably weld this kit in and no one would really notice it.

My observations:
I used a body hammer to correct a few warps around the edges that come from forming the dimples for the countersunk screws....very minimal warpage, not a big deal.

I had to cut my holes a little larger than the template specified, again, not a big deal and no where near coming out from under the coverage of the latch plate.

Time: about 2 hours for the first one, driver's door took longer due to lining up the door. I see rebuilt hinges in my immediate future. I could probably do the whole job in about 2 1/2 hours total next time.


No more multiple slams of the door, and now the kids can open it with ease.....not shure if that is good..... I can open it with one finger....people used to think it was locked until I told them to manhandle it.

I HIGHLY reccommend this one.

Great pics, those are actually more useful than the ones that are in the instructions. Mount the outside handle (front screw and jamb screw) before installing latch....this will let you turn the handle enough to get the front screw in.


One note to Trique: If the latch plate was stainless, it could be polished...and wouldnt require finishing.

Good pointg on the handle first. I will do that when I paint the parts.

Great instructions

Thanks fore sharing the pictures and the easy understandeble instructions. Well worth the money i think.

Martinius.

just fyi: they are gonna try to stamp the latch plates in stainless, and if it turns out ok they will offer a polished stainless option. i spoke with them today and they said to check back in a couple of weeks to see if or when they'll be ready. i was gonna pull mine back off and powdercoat, but i think i'll wait and see what happens. they said that there may be a discounted "upgrade" to those that already bought the kit and want to switch.

Russ~ You Da MAN!

As a visual learner, let me say THANK YOU! Another well documented "How to" piece! (I especially like the video clip you expertly worked in there! )
That was kinda like what I would like for the exhaust debate...

I will work on seeing if I can get a similar clip on here.

My wife keeps asking me what I want for Fathers Day. I think I've found it.

Honestly, one of the best and easiest upgrades I have done to my truck. I went to a rockabilly car show today, my friends and the other AD drivers were very impressed.

Very nice tutorial there on the latches. We are glad to see so many pleased customers on this forum and others that are getting such enjoyment out of our products. I try to keep up on several forums and answer questions that may come up, it looks like all were answered here though. Let us know if we can be of any help.

One thing I do want to add is like barnescole said, we are going to have some sample latch installation plates done in mirror polished stainless steel to see how they do with the dies. If all is well we will post information on our site about how to trade out your steel plates at a discounted rate.

When I go to put the door handle back on the outside of the door, what is the secret to getting the screw tightened. This latch has less range of motion than the original setup. I cannot turn the handle down far enough to tighen the screw. Any thoughts anyone?

Other than that... BEAUTIFUL!!

Thanks for the pics and the write up I always look forward to seeing what you have done!!!

Put the handle in first, then the latch. (I didn't notice it in the instructions either)

Yep. Goes together easily when you follow the instructions. Thanks Chris!

If you had a GMC...

I've taken my doors off and put them back on three times, so far. They open and close sooooo nice.

Must be a G thing~

Thanks again, Russ! You helped those Chevy guys "immeasurably"

GMC Doors

No Zig ;

It's because they want to attract attention away from the FUGLY grille.....

Locks

I read your post on the Trique latch kit and also saw there add in Classic Trucks. It looks like the way to go except for only being able to lock the pass. side door using the the keyed lock from the outside. Maybe I missed something?

You can add a lock to the driver's door with this kit. I am going t try to make a template for the hole when I do mine, that way they can distribute it also. The provisions are there for the lock, you just have to get another lock assembly, cut the hole, and mount it. Of course, you could also add an electric lock solenoid and put it on a remote, these systems are cheap and should be able to be installed for around $200 including labor. I just installed a kit in a 53,https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=9530&page=11, and it went in just as easily. Every truck I build will have one of these in it.

Just installed a latch set in the 53 GMC in the shop, spent more time painting the plates than installing it. EVERYONE needs these things, you will not regret it. I may be becoming a dealer and installer for them.

I got the mirror stainless plates in, they fit as well and look better than the steel ones.