Take your time maybe tape the top door channel edges( put a few stripes down) and extra set of hands does not hurt. make sure it lined up in all the places moves smooth before putting on the inner panel on. then re check after the felt panel on. Good luck.
Update Roger that on the tape. (Tape is cheap, scratches are not) My doors were completely gutted & this was how I installed my windows. 1. First tape off the inside and outside of the window channel. 2. Don't lube the regulators or window track, it's hard to hold the window with grease on everything. 3. Next install the window regulator using only the lower two mounting bolts. Leave them loose so the regulator has room to move. Install the window crank and lower the regulator all the way down. 4. Insert the door glass into the door and rest it on the window rubber bump stop. Grip the glass at the top and raise the front enough to slide the glass channel onto the rear regulator roller. 5. Hold the front of the glass with one hand and crank the window up about 2/3rds of the way. Align and insert the regulator front roller with the slot in the window and finish cranking the window up.
How did the tape do when installing the vent window? One problem I've had every time I pull/install that has been scratching the paint. And how much did the new vent windows cost? I've replaced the seal on my driver's side, but it was a pain and still leaks, whereas the original pass. side one is fine. Not sure how well this would work with the crank sticking out on manual regulators, but since converting to power windows I've found that taping the window in the up position before installing the regulator has been MUCH easier than installing the regulator first (easier to move the regulator side to side and you can see the track better).
The tape works just as well on the vent window. I taped the surrounding area to include the rolled lip on the inside. After getting the vent window in place I pulled the tape out of the lip and left the rest in place until I was finished. The order I put mine back together was regulator, door glass, vent window, door glass weather stipping, rear glass track followed by the rest of the locking mechanism. When removing the vent window I would think it would be harder to tape the lip under the vent window. Maybe the vent could be raised enough to slide some tape under it? I had to special order the vent windows @ $258.00 for each side from my local Chevy dealer and took about 3 days to come in. Looking back, there well worth every penny.
Related Question David Hall, Since you have recently been elbows-deep inside your doors, perhaps you may know if the gear itself can be replaced on the window operator motor. I have not opened the door panel yet on my '85 Suburban, but the motor has broken off some teeth on mine by the sound of it. I have been told that the motor gear is far more likely to lose teeth than the regulator sprocket. So far, I have not found a replacement gear by itself (LMC, Classic, Napa, etc.). I am not opposed to buying another motor, but to save a few bucks, I though I could find a gear from salvage. Since I like to get my ducks in a row, I also figure the experience of removing one at the salvage yard will give me some insights before tearing into mine first. Thanks in advance for any input. By the way, your truck is looking good.
Since we are on the subject, my 83 has power windows and they are both getting realllllllllllyyyyyy s-l-o-w going up any suggestions?? Thanks!! Truck does look good david.
I wish I could be of more help but mine were the crank type. I will lend you this advice, since going over just about every part of this truck, whenever I need to replace a part I go to every extreme to use an original GM part. And if I can't find a decent used one, or afford a new GM one, then and only then will I start looking at aftermarket pieces. From my experience the quality, fit and finish of aftermarket is just not there yet. Not to beat up the aftermarket, because if weren't for them, some parts would not be availabe at all. Don't be intimidated, pull the door panel and have a look. Take and post some pics, then we'll see what needs to be replaced. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Check your rollers. If they are cracked/gummed up they will slow even a new window motor. If they are just dirty, clean them and lube it with white lithium grease or silicone spray. If any are cracked, I'd recommend getting new regulators. I tried replacing just the rollers with new ones from LMC, but they were just as bad as the old ones. Bought new regulators from Classic Parts, they are now at least twice as fast. Another thing you can try: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206618&highlight=power+windows+relay I haven't done this yet as I first saw it after I put my doors back together and haven't really felt like pulling them apart again.
Sahadley, looking at an old reman motor I have, the gear actually looks pressed on (tried taking a pic, but my camera couldn't focus close enough). It has some small tabs that look like they expand over the shaft. To take the motor apart there are tabs from one half of the housing that fold back through the other half, so if you do look at it at a salvage yard, you may need a drill and/or a small screwdriver you can pry with.
