Greetings all! I have a 51 3100 with a 3/4 ton rear end (8-lug) that I will be swapping for a one out of a 1/2 ton 55. I'm looking for any advice on how to actually do this type of project. Any tips from experience would be appreciated, or pointers to other places on the Internet would be helpful too. By the way, the front axle was already swapped out by the previous owner, so I'm just going with what he was planning to do, that is convert suspension to 1/2 ton. Thanks, Dan
I put an, 8.8 ford rear from a 90 town car. These zre in t birds, crown vic s, ltds, mustangs, etc. you can get a 2.72, 3.08, 3.27, up, some with limited slip. A dakota rear should fit well also. I had a 97 2wd, measurements look like it should match up well, and keeps the 6 lug wheels....
Open Driveshaft Rear End Swap Dan ; That's a good swap and it has been covered in minute details before , try hunting in the archives.....
Thanks for the replies! I'm a newbie to the Classic Parts forum, so I'm learning the ropes. I'll check out the archives. Thanks guys!
Welcome, Dan! Sounds like we are doing the same thing. I have, but have not installed the 1/2 ton front axle. (Waiting to purchase the springs first.) Then it will be time to swap the 8 lug butt for a 6 lug. ...drums or discs... discs or drums... Anyway, as Nate said, there's lots of info on doing these swaps. Like mine, your perches will be on the top of your axle instead of the bottom, but apparently that's no big deal. Good luck, and post some pictures of your baby!
Welcome Dan. I think Tailgater did the very thing you're talking about, but on a 1 ton. I'm sure he'll chime in.
Welcome Dan, I did a rear end swap but it is quite different from yours. I have a 48 3800 that had an 8 lug 5:14 rear that I changed out for a circa 78 Chevy 1 ton with a 4:10 ratio. The main thing that I had to do was adjust the axle location so that the tire centered in the fender. If, when you get to that point you need a relative easy way to center the wheel, let me know. Gater http://http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/baskette_bill_1948.html
Sure glad I joined the forum, you all have been real helpful, and more great tips! The anticipation of doing the swap is getting exciting knowing that there is lots of help out there The truck was a 'rescue' so she's a work in progress. Decided to rebuild instead of a restore so I can get some enjoyment out of driving it while I work on various components. Y'all want to see the before picture, got a while before an after picture will be taken Thanks again!
Love your handle! I might change mine to "Steve McGarrett". Loved Hawaii 5-0. I lived on Oahu in the 60's courtesy of Uncle Sam! We love pictures, both before and after! Bring'm on! My first car was a '63 Chevy Biscayne, bought new at Aloha Motors in '63 by my dad. Didn't have a heater or A/C, because you didn't need it there!
More appropriately Big Kahuna Ken, you don't get to change your handle in the forum, once you pick it, you are stuck with it. My first "car" was a 14 year old 1954 3100 54 Chevy Pick-up 3 window with a stock sun visor and a heater, but it didn't need the heater very often. My current 54 (Thunder) a monument to my past! Port Arthur's not exactly the Big Island, but it is and will be "Gasoline Town" for another couple of decades. Jim
Hey guys, been away for almost a month, work was calling... I just pulled out the 3/4T rear end this evening, that thing must weigh 500 lbs! I bought the Rear Axle Conversion Kit from CP and all I need to do is find a friend with a welder so I can attach the perches. I'm gonna go out and snap a few pics now so you guys can see the state of my project. Maybe a few of us could start a Hawaii 5-0 forum Dan
So what rear end are you going with, Dan? Gotta have that before you weld perches. I _assume_ that the rear conversion kit works the same for a 3/4, being as though the springs are on top of the axle, and not under it. (?) I'm happy for you, Dan! Sounds like you'll have me beat back to rolling condition. Pictures! Can't wait to see pictures of this! Good Luck!
Zig, The rear end I acquired was from a 55 p/u. However, the spring perches are on the top, and the 3/4 stock setup that I just pulled out of my truck had the perches on the bottom. I don't think I'll be rolling that soon, once I get the rear end work done, I still have to replace the entire brake system. We'll see how the time and $ works out. I finally got some pictures uploaded. Had to get CP Talk tech support to fix something b4 I could upload. https://talk.classicparts.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=542 Thanks, Dan
A 3/4, and your perches were below your axle? Shiver me timbers! What might be yer gear ratio? Bigh the bigh~ Mighty nice beginnings ya have there, matey! Eyeeeeee! Or should I say, ARRRRgh!?
After close inspection of the 3/4 axle, I noticed that someone moved the perches from the top to the bottom. No I have doubts that the p/u was indeed a true 3/4. Oh well, I'll just plug along with my plan and drop the other axle in.
Identifying if your truck is a 3100 or 3400 is easy. The frame rails on a 3100 (1/2 ton) are 11" wider than the 3600. And you're right, all 3/4 ton trucks had their springs over the axles. You should get a Factory Assembly Manual. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1947...018QQitemZ280211376382QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I'm baack... Well, after a few year absence from working on my 51, I'm back on to get the rear end in. Question for you experts I'm getting ready to weld the perches on my replacement axle and I've been reading about pinion angle. Here are the problems/questions I have: 1) I've read that you need the vehicle on all four wheels to set the pinion angle. How is this done if your axle is not attached to the springs? Do I bolt on the axle with the perches installed (not welded)? 2) I don't have a driveshaft yet, do I need this to set the pinion angle? 3) Basic question on pinion angle... if the pinion angle is 3 degrees, is that three degrees up or down at the front of the differential? Thanks! Dan
But the important part is that an imaginary line projected from the front of the differential should be parallel to an imaginary line projected from the rear of the tranmission. So if the angle of the output shaft of the transmission is 2.5 degrees down the angle of the differential should be 2.5 degrees up to be parallel. Things change if you are setting up a drag car, but for an every day driver this should do.
Bill, that makes much more sense when presented that way (i.e., regarding #3). Thanks a bunch! Would you know the answer to #1? 1) I've read that you need the vehicle on all four wheels to set the pinion angle. How is this done if your axle is not attached to the springs? Do I bolt on the axle with the perches installed (not welded)? Thanks, Dan
The only advise I can give you from experience is to work off of centers, set your rearend on the spring perches and make sure you have a 1 1/2 degree pinion angle then clamp it all together on the leaf springs before you tack weld it together. Pinion angel is done with a degree finder.[You can get a mag based degree finder cheep at any tool store.] You set the degree finder on the flat part of the third member just behind the yoke. With the truck level you bring the yoke up 1 1/2 degrees off of zero. Too much angel can cause the pinion bearing to be starved of oil and not enough can cause a vibration and be hard on u joints. You might have to relocate the hole in the spring perches to make sure the rearend sits center in the wheel well. After you have done all of this and you are sure you are centered and everything looks right, remove the rearend and weld it together. You dont need to worry about a drive line until after your rearend is set. Brake upgrades are also easy and cheep if you can't aford a expensive kit. I hope this helps.
