Is it possible to install the 40 gallon suburban gas tank into a long bed fleetside pickup? It would go where the spare tire is now.
Yes it is possible. I was thinking of doing this when I converted my truck to diesel since my donor truck was a suburban with a 40 gal tank, but I didn't know where to run the filler neck, and it was quicker/easier to just keep my stock tank for the moment. Try looking around the forums at coloradok5.com. I know at least a few people there have them. I think the one issue that was talked about was clearance between the tank and the axle.
part one of the a fuel cell in stall, This is a idea. This maybe a idea you could maybe use a car Plate holder that folds down run it through the bumper behind the plate. I know I seen one set up like the suburban or the jimmy I will keep looking. Written by: Jeff Drew Step by step instructions on how to install a fuel cell between the rear frame rails under the bed. I decided I did not want to run the saddle tank gas tank that was mounted on the outside right frame rails, but instead I wanted to put a fuel cell in the rear frame rails under the bed floor. I have seen people put in suburban/blazer gas tanks back there, and while there is nothing wrong with this I liked the looks and simplicity of the cell more. After some careful measuring I determined a 16 gallon unit (same size as my stock tank) from Summit Racing would fit perfectly. This is a foam filled cell (to prevent fuel slosh) that has a GM sending unit already installed. The cell will be mounted to the top of the rear frame support and to the top of the frame just behind the differential with a custom made bracket. Because the frame kicks up above the axle, I needed to design a bracket that drops down, that way the cell will sit level with the bed/frame once finished. The difference from the rear of the frame to where the new bracket was going to sit was 1 ¾”. I went to Discount Steel and Aluminum (Mpls, MN) and purchased an aluminum C-channel that measured 32” long and 1 ½” x 1 ½”, I then purchased a flat piece of aluminum that was also 32” long and 1 ½” wide by ¼” thick. Once home I put them together in a vice, drilled two holes (one on each end) and bolted them together, this giving me the desired 1 ¾” drop bracket. Once two pieces were now one, I drilled the remaining holes for the straps, sanded the bracket, and primed and painted it the same color as the frame. Once the paint had dried I centered and clamped the bracket to the frame and drilled two holes through each end and bolted the bracket to frame. Now it was time to install the cell, or so I thought. The problem I encountered was that the bracket for the rear brake line was in the way, the cell with its brackets installed would not clear it. To remedy this I shortened the ends on one side of the brackets (the ones that bolt to the rear frame support) by one inch, by doing this it moved the cell back the same distance and now it fits like a glove with about ¼” clearance between the cell and the brake line/bracket. Now before you think you are finished and attempt to install the bed back on the frame, you will need to cut a five inch section out of the bed support that runs directly above the fuel cell sending unit (if your truck has a fleetside bed). This modification is required in order the clear the sender on top of the fuel cell. On my truck, I decided to fabricate a C-channel to weld into the opening...giving the underside of the bed a much cleaner look. Finally, you will also need to figure out where you want to locate your gas filler neck...mine will be in the bed floor (see pics below). Because I didn't just want to cut a hole in the bed floor for access to the fuel cell, I decided to install a fuel door into the bed floor. While this sounds easy enough, it really wasn't. Because fleetside bed floors are ribbed, I needed to figure out a way to get the fuel door to sit flush and not look like a Saturday afternoon hack job. To remedy this, I decided the best method would be to fabricate a mounting bracket/ring that I could set flush with the highest rib on the floor and weld in. This bracket/ring also had to allow me to set the fuel door flush with the top of it, so neither the bracket/ring or fuel door would sit above the bed floor. Luckily, I had a friend who owns his own fabrication shop and had him fabricate this bracket/ring out of 1/2" thick cold rolled steel. The finished bracket/ring is 1/2" thick, with a 1/4" recess to allow the fuel door to sit flush inside of it. next part #2
Part two of the same post.... While I was working out the details with the fuel door, I decided I wanted to put in a better fuel cap on the fuel cell. While I doubt the original cap assembly would have given me any problems, I wanted the filler neck to sit a little closer to the bed floor, and have something that would keep any water, dirt, or debris that might be able to find its way into the fuel cell. The filler neck I purchased was a JAZ Products Fast Fill valve with cap. In order to get this assembly to fit my fuel cell, I needed to remove the original cap assembly, widen the opening on the fuel cell by 1/8" or so, then mark and drill the new holes for the new JAZ assembly. All in all it was an easy upgrade and well worth it in my opinion. Here is a list of the key components and their part numbers for everything I did on this project... -Fuel Cell, Summit, SUM-290108 -Fuel Cell Straps, Summit, SUM-290154 -Fuel Door, Bully, GD-102 -Fuel Filler, JAZ Products, 391-250-03 -Fuel Filler Split Nut Ring, JAZ Products, 315-030-03
40 gallong tank conversion I just noticed you question if you can place the 40 gallon tank into a truck. I have a 1978 crew-cab long bed that I am frame off restoring. I have already converted it from 2 wheel to 4 wheel, added a port fueled injected Mark 6 454, 4l80e trans, and a 2002 disk over drum rear end. With the addition of the Mark 6 I needed to get rid of the duel tanks. I decided to mount the 40 gallon tank in the rear. I obtained the tank out of an 1986 suburban and utilized the mounts. I had to remove the original rear cross member and place the rear cross member out of the suburban in its place. I ended up having to move the rear mount to the very end of the frame and do a little welding to get the tank to set level in the front. I found the frame of the trucks are shorter then the suburban. If you try to match up the factory rear tank mount cross member to where the factory rear cross memebr was located the gas tank is only about 1-2 inches away from the differential. I did not feel very comfortable with this in case of a rear impact and having 40 gallons of fuel in the tank being smashed into a differential. I now have about 4 inches of clearance from the differntial. I had to clearence the last bed rib, and the second from the rear to clear the filler neck and the rear cross memebr mount of the tank. I still have to fabricate the filler and vent tube up to the side of the bed, which will take some time and effort. If you want some pictures of what it looks like let me know. Hopefully this was a little helpful.
pm'd you about pics. Is the axle you installed the new one with the 11.5" ring gear? And do you still have the 2wd suspension brackets on the rear? Did you lift it at all?
I will have to check on the rear end. I believe it is the Corporate 10.5. If you are referring to the one they are now placing in the Durmax trucks then no. We were just discussing that issue, but I can’t recall the specific on the heavy duty ¾-1ton axel they are now utilizing. As to the lift on the truck I will be a little long winded. I first found that the frame on this truck has approximately two inches greater height then the suburban chassis at the rear mounting point 12” verse 10”. But at the same time the front of the frame actually drops down approximately 1” further in the front then the suburban frame did. So I had to drop the front spring mount location approximately one inch to compensate for the taller rear frame to try to maintain proper drive shaft angles. So what that provided was the suburban chassis had a two inch Rancho lift, which translated to approximately 4-5 inches on the crew-cab frame. I came up with this height after comparing my brother’s 86 with a four inch lift and observed my frame horn was about an inch taller then his at the front. The rear end is just bolted in place on the spring perch until I can get drive shafts made. I cut off all the factory mounting hardware on the new rear axel and will weld them back on once I can get the custom rear springs made to match the front ride height. Hopefully with the motor, transmission, transfer case now mounted it will all work out. It was a lot of fabrication to the transmission tunnel to clearance the 4L80E and transfer case, and get the motor sitting level. Not to mention swab bar, motor mounts and cross-member which all had to be modified. I will have to get some better pictures on the front and rear end, and I just realized I have none of the gas tank. I will have to figure out how to attch picture tomorrow.
You could always add another 20gal. tank on the other side and have dual tanks. It would seem to be less of a problem. There is room for it and you would only need to run the filler tube, fuel lines/electrical and put in a transfer switch
