61 Apache10 Shortbed step

[61RodMobile]

I've got a 1961 Apache 10 shortbed stepside that I have just pulled in the driveway. I've got some wild ideas about what to do with this thing. A few Q's come to mind. 1...how do I put power steering on this thing. 2... I see chevy duty has disk brakes with 2.5 lowering kits, but I also want to lower the back. How can I do that. 3... I need a pair of doors, 2 front fenders and a hood. Any sugestions on that? Anyone got any? Thanks.


Signed
A devoted Chevy fan!

 

[Superman]

a few answers

1: There are many power steering options. I take it you don't plan on having the original motor right? For instance; if you have a 350 engine, you could find an early '80's chevy truck and completely use the power steering unit. Including the box and pump. The arm that runs from the box to the main steering rod may be a different length, but if all else fails, you can fabricate one.
2: To lower the rear you'll need shorter springs. You can use lowering springs that they offer for the 63-66 trucks, but you have to notch the main frame. And Chevy duty sells a C-notch kit for the 60-61 trucks.(I've seen this set up ran before)
3: As far as doors go, look around at junk yards, you'll be surprised what you can find. As far as fenders and a hood, you have the option of fiberglass or steel. Chevy duty offers the fenders in both styles, but the hood in fiberglass only, which is a 63-66 style. I imagine you have the type of hood with the two large oval ports. If you are looking for a hood with the two oval ports, I happen to have one in reallly good condition for sale,($300 + shipping).
I hope this info helps, let me know about the hood.
-superman.

 

[dvalentine]

[updated:LAST EDITED ON Sep-02-02 AT 12:36 PM (CST)]Hi Rod,

Don't even think about adding power steering without using a mounting adapter by REZ Engineering. It is a bolt in unit that perfectly aligns the steering box to the shaft, and provides a mounting point for all four bolts with a frame reenforcing plate.
The best way of dropping the front is the use of dropped spindles, but mild drops (2 inches or less) can be done using drop springs. Greater than 2 inches you start to experience the dreaded BuckBoard effect. Proper spring rate is also important to help keep the front wheels planted for steering and braking. The rear can be done using drop springs as well. Keep in mind that an adjustable panhard bar will be needed to re-center the differential. More than 4 inches in the rear will necessitate relocating the shock mounts and pan-hard bar.

I run a 3 1/2 front drop using one inch drop springs and 2 1/2 drop spindles, and a 4 inch rear drop using springs alone. No problems bottoming out.

I personally don't like using a C-notch in the frame for clearance. My thinking on this is that I'd much rather bottom out on the frame rails than have the differential come up through the bed ! But, I've seen it used a lot on air-ride suspension vehicles. To each his own, it's all good.