Hi Guys...need some advice. I'm getting ready to pull the cab from the frame on my 66 to weld on rockers, pans, etc. All my glass is perfect but the rubber is weathered and cracked. I'm debating about pulling the glass out but don't know if I'm opening a can of worms or not. Appears I can just cut the rubber and pull the windows out??? Let me know and any advice would be great! Thanks.
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66 Glass Removal
- Thread starter Brad5151
- Start date
Rich 5150 69
Member
Razor knife, cut thru the front edge down all the way thru all the eay around, when its all cut out gently push glass thru to the outside....
Glass Removal
Get a " Carpet Knife " with extra blades in the handle and use that to cut the old rock hard grommet away bit by bit until you can clearly see the edges of the glass all the way 'round , then and ONLY then , use the side of your fist to " bump " it here & there until it's fully loose .
99 % of the time , you'll get 1/2 way through this and decide to try and tip it out , the remaining bit of rock hard rubber is *very* tenacious and it WILL crack that old glass .
I suggest you do this first as you're almost guaranteed to find some rust in the pinchweld and if it's rust through , you want the cab firmly bolted in place when you're repairing that .
I hope you know to NOT buy new glass grommets from the host here , to go Steele Rubber Co. , they'll have an AMERICAN MADE , properly fitting one that won't leak and will last long unlike the Chinese crap .
Get a " Carpet Knife " with extra blades in the handle and use that to cut the old rock hard grommet away bit by bit until you can clearly see the edges of the glass all the way 'round , then and ONLY then , use the side of your fist to " bump " it here & there until it's fully loose .
99 % of the time , you'll get 1/2 way through this and decide to try and tip it out , the remaining bit of rock hard rubber is *very* tenacious and it WILL crack that old glass .
I suggest you do this first as you're almost guaranteed to find some rust in the pinchweld and if it's rust through , you want the cab firmly bolted in place when you're repairing that .
I hope you know to NOT buy new glass grommets from the host here , to go Steele Rubber Co. , they'll have an AMERICAN MADE , properly fitting one that won't leak and will last long unlike the Chinese crap .
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markeb01
Member
One person can carry/lift it easily, and I have a bad back. When installing however two people are really needed simply because it's so big and hard to manage.
The best windshield seals are made by "Precision Brand", which is what Steele carries. These can also be obtained from American Classic Truck Parts at a much cheaper price than Steele.
http://www.americanclassic.com/
Just make sure to specific that you only want "Precision" brand, as they carry seals from 5 different suppliers. This is where I picked up the new seal for my 1960 and it worked perfectly.
The best windshield seals are made by "Precision Brand", which is what Steele carries. These can also be obtained from American Classic Truck Parts at a much cheaper price than Steele.
http://www.americanclassic.com/
Just make sure to specific that you only want "Precision" brand, as they carry seals from 5 different suppliers. This is where I picked up the new seal for my 1960 and it worked perfectly.