Have a 54 chevy 3100 truck. Currently has 6 volt system. Wanting to put blinker system on. What do you need to do to switch over to a 12 volt system and a good way to set up tail lights and parking lights to have a blinker?
Welcome Armadillo! Quick question for you. Are you wanting to convert to 12 volt just to have a turn signal? Or did you want to convert to 12 volt anyway? Reason I'm asking is that you can buy a 6 volt turn signal if that's the only reason. But, as long as we're here, there is a lot of info floating around in cyberspace that deals with it. Here's one link to get you started www.stovebolt.com/techtips/12_volt_conversion.html Good luck and again, welcome.
You might check the archives since this is a popular subject. Here is a short primer: 1. change every bulb including sealed beams (there is a exact match for each in 12v.) 2. if keeping generator get 55.2-59 regulator to replace 6v unit 3. ditto on generator 4. buy Runtz voltage reducer for gas gauge, the oil and temp are mechanical and amp gauge doesn't know 6v amps from 12 volt amps. 5. use 12v coil and condenser that calls for external resister and install resister 6. get heavy duty resister for heater blower motor. Light switch, dimmer switch, starter, horn, are all OK on 12v. If you grind on the starter for long periods or go nuts with the super loud horn they will give up. 7. run another(green) wire to the right rear brake light and cut and tape off the factory wire. 8. our host on this site and others offer dual contact sockets for park and tail/brake lights, get them and use 1157 bulbs in them. I just cut and tape off the park light wires and use them for turn signals since they're not required by law in any state I know of and are pretty much useless. 9. after market turn signals use the GM color coding which is: Light blue--left front Dark blue--right front Yellow--left rear Green--right rear Purple--12v feed White--wire from brake Lt. switch This is not a difficult job, my guys usually figure 3 hours or 4 hours if switching to alternator. After you've done it a hundred or so times the only slow part is splicing into the old cloth covered factory wires. If they crumble like brittle rubber and expose a lot of wire it's best to replace. 10. drop in 12v battery and go cruising. If I forgot something one of the other guys will jump in and clue you in.
Listen to this guy! One thing that I didn't notice on Evan's most awesome, and I'm sure, off the top of his head, tuitoral was the starter. It's my understanding that you can use your 6 volt starter with a 12 volt system. Makes it spin a little faster, but it gets the job done!
There's no real need to use an external ballast resistor , many here have that old tech setup and it gives them troubles .... If your 6 volt starter operates off the key , you'll need to replace the _solenoid_ (only) to ensure it operates properly and for a ong time .
for a coil, go to NAPA and get an IC64 coil...12 v. with internal resistor...saves having to have that ceramic jewel on the firewall.
Good advice! You may get some "looks" from the purists, but the internal resistor coil cured some of my initial ignition problems. Also noted FYI; the 6v and 12v starters are not interchangable. They both have 9 teeth on the bendix drive gear but the 6v drive gear is about 1.150" in diameter to mate up with the 6v 139 tooth flywheel. It has a .558 diameter armature shaft and wears black on the oval tag on the outer case. In contrast, the 12v starter has a drive gear that is .990" in diameter and an armature shaft diameter of .460" to mate up with the 168 tooth 12v flywheel, and wears red on the oval case tag. Dave
Man, you guys are good, and thorough. Show me a "purist" who doesn't appreciate anyone's old truck for what it is, and I'll introduce you to someone who likely doesn't own one yet. Jim
