ok here is the sad up date. it all starts out fine. tuned it up runn better than ever. then i drive it down the road and back and i get back drive around the barn and i get back up on the road and it dies on me. so it is really weird when it died on me because it don't hardly do things like that (unless driver error). so it tried starting it with out checking things out and so it still doesn't start. so i get out and the intake i full of gas (on the out in between the valve covers). and now it won't start. sounds like it is telling me i shouldn't drive it for a lil while. i have just got my heater in it to and i got to wire it all up and get a new heater lever and a cable. cowboy 1961 chevy 1/2 ton shortstep known as sarah (496 big block coming soon)
:-( howziit cowboy! JMO...the very first thing you do, before you even touch that truck, is GET TWO FIRE EXTINGUISHERS! get one for the cab, and one for the bed, if you or anyone else can't get to the cab. i had a gas leak problem also...first just the odor, then finally the telltale leak on the garage floor, AND THE EXHAUST HEAD-PIPE! i was lucky, and so are you...so far. with fire extinguisher next to you, clean up the spilled gas and check for loose gas fittings/hoses. if all looks well, maybe the carb float/needle stuck. time for a carb rebuild! thank your lucky stars, cowboy; you were LUCKY!
I filled up my 62 for the ride to its new home and immediately smelled gas in the cab. I dismissed it as spilled gas from filling, because I had spilled some on the side of the truck. But the smell continues... The tank looks to be in great shape, but I'm wondering if there is a rubber hose somewhere that's a bit rotten. Any experience with this? Rob Holden 62 C10 1/2 ton, 283, 4 spd
well i haven't had any gas lines rotting but i also have a slight gas smell in the cab. i have another problem though. i can rev the engine tyo say 5000 or 5500 rpm no problem in netrual but get it under the load of the truck and the max rpm in first is 4000 and the max in 4 gear is 2000 it you are even luck to get it that high. while all this is going on it is kinda back fireing. then it jumps forward then it backfires. it continuously back fires will under the load of the truck. but it is timed to the second mark above the o as the shop manual says to. help!!!!!!!!! me !!!!!!! please!!!!! thanks Cowboy 1961 chevy 1/2 ton shortstep known as sarah (496 big block coming sooner or late) p.s. can i put a cadillac hei distributor in a chevy?
62, you are correct about there being a rubber hose.It connects the filler tube (that extends outside the cab) to the tank.its held in place by 2 hose clamps.Its difficult to get to but can be replace without removing the tank.
howziit cowboy! how's your vacuum advance and mechanical advance? working ok? how much initial/vacuum/mechanical advance do you have...at what rpm? do you still have points-type distributor? if you want to see confused faces, ask the FLAPS clerks, if the caddy distributor fits the SBC. it probably might; you just need to place them side-by-side, and measure. the advance curve might be lazier, though.}> as far as the gas leak/odor is concerned, JMO, i would change ALL the rubber fuel hoses and filters...AND REBUILD THE CARB, before SARAH burns to the ground.:'(
My brother, a former GM Prototype mechanic, put me onto this little gem, which I'll be buying as soon as possible. Apparently it has wide acceptance and is worth looking into... http://www.pertronix.com./ Points conversion Pertronics - Electronic Ignition Module (points replacement) By: Andy West 05-28-99 - AWWWest@aol.com Supplier: Local Auto Parts Store Cost: $130 My name is Andy West, I own an FJ-55 with F-type motor. In my never-ending quest for more HP and better mileage I ran across a conversion kit for electronic ignition by Pertronics. I bought mine at a local auto parts store (not a big chain) for about $130. It was easy to install, except I had to file a small notch to make plate fit. Otherwise it was very simple, I also bought 40,000 volt coil (stock is 25,000) made by Pertronics (that and electronic ignition parts cost $130). You don't have to replace distributor shaft or any of that; you just remove points, detach then reattach the ground wire. Also, other posts regarding pertronics: http://www.digest.net/ihc/archive/v6/msg11295.html http://www.carsofpgh.com/articles/article_improvements.html http://www.hotrodders.com/cgibin/ubb/15/000464 Rob Holden 1962 C10, 283, 4 spd
ok lets clear a few things up. yes i do have points distributor. i want to put in a hei. i have a caddilac on was what i was told but the sbc on ei have that had been on a 77 elcamino which had burned the cap but everything looks fine (except the cap)the distribors look like the exact same. i don't know about how my vacum advance is working. i have rebuilt the carb last weekend, and i have no gas leaks i have checked. thanks for the help. cowboy 1961 chevy 1/2 ton shortstep known as sarah(496 bbc coming sooner or later)
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Oct-23-02 AT 00:55 AM (CST)] howziit guy! if you have a sbc AND caddy HEI, choose the chevy. if not, use the caddy's. you need to check initial/vacuum/centrifugal advance, for optimum mileage/power. nowadays, it is SO easy to check, with craftsman "inductive advance" timing light. when you have "old eyes and long hair", you'll find it MUCH EASIER, to find "0"(TDC) only...and read your timing settings on the back of the timing light. adjust your spark plugs for wider setting, check/set your timing, adjust carb using vacuum gauge, adjust valves, change oil and filters...you're set for thousands of miles of dependable service!
update. i put in that hei dist. in my truck to day and wow i can tell the difference from the change all ready. it have much more power and it runs better. what is the difference in the gap of the plugs. i have my plugs at .035 or .35 which ever tha setting is can't remember. i think that my truck won't work as hard and will get better gas mileage.thanks for the help. cowboy 1961 chevy 1/2 ton shortstep known as sarah(496 bbc coming sooner or later)
RE: update. howziit cowboy! glad to hear that the HEI is working well for you. now is the time for cheap/free HP. by experimenting with your timing advance, you can pick up a few more HP, and have your engine singing like a canary. JMO, i would pick up Crane's adjustable vacuum diaphragm kit. it sells for about $25, and allows you to fine-tune your distributor for more power. sooo, cowboy, did you get rid of the miss, and backfire? i'm also glad you repaired the gas leak. keep up the good work.
update. [updated:LAST EDITED ON Oct-25-02 AT 11:59 PM (CST)]I guess i don't know what you are saying about the timing and adjusting it to get more hp. what would i have to do? and the crane vacume kit what does this do? more vacume? Can anyone tell me where i can get a tool box thet will fit in side of my stepside bed that has a gas tank in it? i was thinking about getting the tank out of the cab, but it being a shortbed there is not much room under the bed in side the frame rails. si i figured to put it in the bed along with a tool box. thanks again cowboy
RE: update. [updated:LAST EDITED ON Oct-26-02 AT 05:07 AM (CST)] howziit cowboy! it's just simply playing around with your timing adjustments and your distributor, to find your best power & gas mileage settings...where your engine is at its best. right now, you're at ZERO initial timing. when you're finally done, you MIGHT end up with 14*BTDC, and a whole lot more power, response, HP. the crane adjustable vacuum kit, #CRN-99600-1, $22.95, "lets you tailor your ignition to the advance you want." comes with adjustable diaphragm, wrench and distributor advance springs. basically, crane's diaphragm easily replaces your original, allows LESS vacuum advance, so you can install more initial and/or mechanical advance.(mechanical not easily adjusted more than its built-in 20*) when installing the new diaphragm and adjustable stop, i'd replace the original rear screw with a longer one, to prevent cross-threading. you can either glue a timing degree tape onto the balancer, or use craftsman's new-style inductive advance timing light, the one with the adjustable dial on the back of the pistol. before changing parts, test to see what your original settings are. if you're at ZERO, just plug in your vacuum hose, check your timing at idle. subtract your initial advance(ZERO in this case), and that's how much vacuum advance you have. rev your engine; your vacuum advance is lost, and mechanical advance kicks in, which should max out before 4000rpm. subtract your initial setting; that should be your total mechanical advance. make sure to keep a journal of your original timing settings, and each individual setting, as you make your changes. run your original settings for a week, noting your gas mileage, and how your truck feels/reacts at all phases of driving, and its reaction to different grades of gasoline. just twist in a couple degrees on initial timing, run it like that for a week, take notes. keep twisting a couple degrees at a time, run it for a week, take notes. make sure you check your spark plug coloring often, to make sure it's not running too rich(dark), or too lean(white), so as not to damage your engine while testing for best timing settings. when you get to the point, that your engine is detonating(making rattling noises on load, such as climbing hills), back off the timing, until it doesn't do it anymore...or add a higher octane gasoline. if you're intent on running 87 octane only, just do the above steps until detonation, then back off, then make your next timing modification. install the adjustable diaphragm and softer springs, keep testing and taking notes. this is very tedious work, and takes a lot of time, to sort out which settings work best for your truck. JMO, $22.95 and lots of your time will get your engine working very well, and for cheap. if you gain 10 HP for your effort, what can i say?! BTW, the HEI and all this work will transfer onto your big-block, in the future.
When I bought mine it hesitated and abckfired a little when I stepped on it and it was just a matter of turning the distributor to adjust the timing some. Might try that if you havent already.
RE: update. Ok heres another sad update. as i was driving my truck my speedo jumps to the 100mph (like it was burried) then its flips back over to the 10mph and starts bouncing upand down. Then it falls off. not good. Cowboy 1961 chevy 1/2 ton shortstep known as sarah
RE: update. howziit cowboy! let's hope it's the speedo cable. disconnect at the trans and speedo, inspect for breakage/damage. reconnect to speedo. connect the trans end of the cable to a variable speed electric drill. watch the speedo, as you turn the drill on, and change speed. if you have the same bad movement, the speedo head is defective. if speedo works ok, check the gears at the trans end. make sure you check the cable well, and replace if necessary. hope this helps.
