I see posts asking about this and we use a quite simple approach that works well. The factory rod that runs from the foot pedal to the AD tubular cross shaft is cut and threaded and then an equalizer off of any open rear vehicle is installed on this threaded rod. The e-brake cables from the backing plates on the open rear end are then run through the equalizer so the splice connection of those cables is to one side and does not interfere with the cable sliding through the equalizer. Pictures will clear up a murky discription I hope. This is on an S10 conversion but by-passing the cross shaft on an AD also makes the job easier.
Thanks, Evan! You knew that question was coming, huh? I look forward to the day I am hooking up the e-brakes to my new Colorado back axle. I'm sure this would have been a question. Thanks for the pictures!
Thanks Evan, I am presently using Nate's stick-trick after a frustrating afternoon putting that Oh-so-Simple bolt in Power brake booster on. Can't get my front pedal back. After that problem is solved I'm moving on to complete the E-brake assembly the PO removed. Your timing is perfect! Flashlight
The Stick Trick Be aware that it often takes a few tried to get the 100 % full benifit here . I like to hand stroke the brake pedal whilst looking in the master cylinder , if you take your time you'll soon figure out how many pumps to give it then how long to wait for that bunch of bubbles to begin floating to the top , this is a simple but slow deal , once it stops releasing bubbles , then you can move on to the stick trick overnight and it'll work better .
