I have been enjoying riding my truck after a series of fuel delivery problems. I had to buy a new carby and installed a fuel filter. I just have the valves adjusted and she is purring like a kitten. The problem i have now is the brake pedal sits too far forward. It is almost dangerous. I have adjusted the clevis to the point where it is almost to the knurled section of the master cylinder piston shaft. I don't think i canget anymore adjustment there. I have tried to reduce the tension on the return spring, but then the pedal rod won't snap back enough to turn the brake light switch off. If i am not careful, the brain drains from leaving the brake light on. I am at a loss as to what to do. I thought about putting a spacer on the stop light switch arm. That would keep the pedal in further but alsonturn the brake light off. I am right that the stop light switch arm goes between the pedal arm and the firewall, right?? Like Roseanne Rossanna Dana always said... It's always something!! Greg
Perhaps I did not fully explain. I have mounted the stop light switch on the engine side of the firewall. What I was asking is, what side of the brake pedal arm does the switch go? In other words, does it activate on the downstroke or the upstroke? Right now I have it so the switch turns off when the pedal is fully returned. The switch turns on with just a little travel on the pedal. The spring I have on returns the pedal. I don't even know how you would install a spring to keep the pedal in, but it would not solve the problem of the stop light switch. Greg
Brake Pedal & Switch It sounds like you have everything correct but , you mention the pedal proper isn't aligned or maybe isn't stopping in the right place ~ is the hard rubber bump stop still on the engine side of the toe board ? . It is what positions the pedal's resting point , NOT the clevis pin .
Nate, The hard rubber block is in place. The problem is that as soon as that rubber block leaves the firewall, the stop light switch activates. When you ask what is the pedal's resting position, which do you mean? The distance from the pedal to the floor, or the pedal arm from the engine side of the firewall? Should the brake pedal be even with the clutch pedal? My brake pedal is a good 1 1/2" further forward. It is an unnatural motion to go from the accelerator to the brake (and a little dangerous). Greg
Brake Light Switch The brake light switch is correct if it comes on as soon as you depress the pedal . If the clutch pedal is higher , maybe it's rubber block has gone missing ? . The " at Rest " position means when the pedal is released . If the pedal goes down too far when you step on it , the brake shoes proper , are probably not correctly adjusted ~ there are TWO adjusters per wheel in 1950 and older Chevy vehicles . The brake and clutch pedals both need separate springs that , when you release the pedal , return the pedal up against the toe board with a " THUMP " failure to have this , means poor brakes . Fix the brake pedal return spring then grease the pedals (there's a Zerk fitting underneath all that grease & grime) , then adjust the master cylinder's push rod so it rattles ever so slightly by hand when the pedal is released . the pedal should move about 1/4" before you feel any resistance . Then (and ONLY THEN) you may properly adjust the brakes *if* the drums are cool to the touch . Once you have a hard pedal , the system is closing in on perfection . So : do all these things in the proper order and you'll have passable brakes . The Huck braking system rhymes with ' suck ' for a very good reason , it was barely adequate when it was designed in 1937 to stop an unladen Coupe not exceeding 45 MPH on the flat ~ not so good 50 + years later on your old truck going full tilt boogie in traffic but still do - able as long as you maintain it correctly and have it properly bled . I hope this helped .
Not really.... The rubber bloack is in place. I will ask by question again... Should the brake pedal be even with the clutch pedal? My brake pedal is a good 1 1/2" further forward. It is an unnatural motion to go from the accelerator to the brake (and a little dangerous). What if I moved the rubber block so it is even with the lever arm of the stop light switch? I know the block is supposed to hit the firewall, but I cannot think of anything else to move the pedal in and still have the switch off. Greg
Greg, yes the brake pedal is further forward than the clutch pedal and a little higher up on the toe board. As far as the switch is concerned, are you sure that you have the correct switch? There are several out there. Ken
Greg: More than once in your messages above you talk about the rubber block hitting the firewall. The block is supposed to be stationary on the firewall (at least it is on my '57 truck) and the pedal hits the block. In your description it sounds as if the block is attached to your pedal and hits the firewall. Or maybe I'm just reading your posts wrong.
Bill - Yes, in the AD series the rubber block is slotted and slides onto the flat bar that the brake pedal rod is attached to. Both the clutch and brake bars are attached by way of a bushing to a axle-like rod. These bars have extensions to which the return springs are attached. This project has taken a back seat as my truck is now stuck in second gear! Time to drain the tranny and pop the side panel off and see what going on. Greg
