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charging system nightmare

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will54

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got a 64 1/2 ton with a 327...I rebuilt everything on it, and it ran great for a while. now I either have a short, or the charging system isn't doing it's job. the BIG problem is, I'm not an electrician!!
I need to know how to check for a short, and, how to check the charging system. I have an alternator with an external regulator. If you can give me some pointers, GREAT!! Also, is there anywhere on the internet I can go that is specifically designed to help rookies with electrical troubleshooting, and maybe even automobile electrical tutorials? I don't have the time or the cash to go to a trade school to learn all this stuff, but I am willing to explore the internet to find the information, if anyone can steer me in the right direction. Okay, thanks in advance, if you can help me out. :) "FRUSTRATED" in Colorado.
 
Is your problem after your car sits over night, or after you drive for awhile? Completely charge your battery until it is compeltely charged. Then let your car sit over night. If it is a new battery, and the battery is dead the next morning you have a short or something is drawing current(stereos are usually the problem if hooked up wrong). If it is after you drive for awhile, you could have a loose alternator belt, or a bad voltage regulator or alternator. Those voltage regulators are pretty cheap, and you can have your alternator tested at your local parts store for free.

If you think that you have a short, here is a quick way to check for one. First you need a test light, which if you do not have one already, you can pick up a good one at a local auto parts store for about $10.00(A GREAT ELECTRICAL TOOL SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY ON A GOOD ONE DURABILITY). Now that you have the test light, make sure that everything is off in the truck, stero, ignition, dome light, clock, I mean anything that can draw electricity if you need to disconnect them from key off battery power..... Once this is done, disconnect battery neg. Connect the test light to the neg. batt cable, then touch the point of the test light to battery negative. If the test light lights, if it is a short it will should be dim, if it is not, you have a dead ground or something is still turned on. If it is a short, you've got big troubles it could be anywhere, and I would need to write a novel on how to find it.

I hope that this helps.:D
 
jm66, thanks loads for the info. I think my regulator was bad (battery went dead after driving for a distance). I've decided to go to a later model alternator with an internal regulator. I heard there are less problems with that kind. Do you happen to know how to hook it up? It has the two prong plug in, and there are two posts. One post in the battery post, the other, I suppose, is a ground? Anyway, thanks for all your help!!:) Happy Truckin'!
 
Hook up is simple. Order the conversion harness from our hosts here at ChevyDuty. Or , you can hook a 16 gauge ( I think)wire from the positive battery post to the screw on terminal of the alternator.

I did mine both ways, first the hot wire method. I didn't like the way my gauges reacted to differing loads on the battery, especially, headlights, blower moter, and wipers. I switched to the conversion harness, ( I believe its' less than $20), and am pleased with the results.

DV
 
dvalenine, thanks for info. got everything hooked up. didn't use the harness, just did some simple rewiring, and all is okay now.
Someone told me that if I run a wire (about 6 ga.)from the alternator straight to the battery, there won't be the problem with the lights dimming when the engine rpm's are low. I haven't hooked up a heavy guage wire yet, but I'm gonna to see if it helps out. Okay, thanks again!!!:)
 
will54,

It is nice to here that you got her running. Hook up for a standard GM AC Delco Alt. "BAT" terminal minimum 6 gage wire to battery. If equipped with "GRD" terminal goes to ground minimum 6 gage wire. "NO.1" terminal(spade connector near the top)goes to key on and indicator lamp minimum 12 gage wire. "NO.2" terminal(other spade connector near the top) goes to battery 12 gage wire minimum. I hope that this helps.
 
jmiyashi66,

Thanks for the exact wire guage specs. Got my old beast running like a champ now. Wish I had a web site so I could post some pictures of her and show her off a bit.:)

ps. how did you learn so much about all the different wire guages needed for the various applications? Again, Thanks!!
 
Dude, i am an electronic tech by trade but can't really apply it to autos. anyway, i got a 63, which had an alternator with external regulation. sure enough, mine didn't want to charge either and it put out wimpy voltage. my solution. i went and got an INTERNALLY regulated alternator for $45 and just ripped out the external regulator junk. Plus, at the same time my wiring harness was completly burned up. you might want to look into that. but yeah external regulators suck especially when they are old. now my system puts out 14.4V. just right. take care,
Lloyd
 
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