I've been fighting with a Problem Again! After reinstalling my engine in my 1980 One ton dually 4x4. my clutch hangs up and the pedal doesn't return all the way unless I hook it with my foot and pull it up. Are all of the clutch pedal systems of this model, 1973 to 87, the same? Mine has a spring going from the top of the pedal arm above the linkage rod going directly up ward to what feels to be a mounting hook to the top of the pedal bracket assembly. On the left side of the pedal arm is , a bout half way up, a stud , on which a flat piece of steel or oval washer, with a egg shape hole in the middle and the spring attaches to this, vague aye, I'll post pics if necessary, the spring that is there wont allow the linkage to cam the pedal all the way back up after depressing it. it will pull the linkage back up. But what pulls the pedal to the stop? I've owned this for seven years and the pedal was always a little weird to me but now it's gotten passed weird to very annoying! Here's A little back ground on the truck. This was a conversion from auto to manual. The gentleman I bought this truck from got stuck on a beach and got mad. He ordered a GM create engine then pulled the tranz, transfer-case and pedal assembly from a 77 3/4 ton to change it. He is a good mechanic but I'm not sure he got every thing at the right points and distances. This is one area I'm concerned with the distance between the bell housing pivot and the frame pivot bracket. Does someone have the correct measurement between pivot mounts inside to inside? ( are all truck frames drilled for the frame bracket). I'm not able to put the inner retainer and seal on the bell housing side and the adjusting rod is on about a 15% angle in reference to the lower pivot arm and clutch release fork. it doesn't look right to me. According to all the parts lists and illustrations I've been able to find this is the only set up there is. Was there a heavy duty set up? One other thing that makes me question this thing is where the fuel line was ran. It was on the outer upper edge of the right frame rail, looks factory, but the line is huge I had to stretch 3/8 line to fit. Could this thing had been a diesel conversion on top of everything else? This truck use to belong to Utility company in southern AZ, and had a cherry picker in the utility bed it at one time, example 14 leaves plus 8 over load springs on the rear, almost 11" of springs. Yes it does ride like a 1/2 track but, boy can it Haul! Has any one ran in to any of these problems? I'm tempted to change it back to automatic but all I've is a 350 turbo with a 205, I think have to go dig it out to check,transfer-case, I don't think this is strong enough with what I haul around. I'm also tired so if this is confusing I'm sorry
Linkage problems Here's some shots, If there not enough I'll try again. Pedal springs. I added the smaller spring it helps pull the pedal forward. This is over all shot of the lower pivot arm Outer pivot from the engine compartment. Inner pivot. You can see how far to the outside it is. When I try to side it to the in side it will only go about 1/2 inch. Outer pivot from the wheel well outer frame. I've been thinking that this bracket was mounted to far to the out side of the frame. Here is a comparison of fuel lines the connected line is the the line I had to replace as I said in my other post,"Fuel Delivery problem?" This is not your average stack of springs. Over all shot of my work truck IMG]http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss215/reinovator/One%20Ton%204x4dually%20chevy/HPIM1208.jpg[/IMG] Thanks in advance
when you reinstalled the trans did you make sure to grease the throw out bearing shaft? did you adjust the linkage rod so that your clutch pushes the pedal up 3/4 of the way? in 85 chev switched to a hydro clutch that uses different spring setup.
What a mess Well I got it. Remember I said It never felt right? Well after checking every Diagram I could find I removed all the linkage from the Pedal to the clutch fork. I then took a good look at the angles of every thing and notice that the side of the lower pivot arm which was installed on the bell housing bell-crank had no spring retainer groove? No wounder I couldn't get the retainer in. This got me thinking so I looked closer at the diagrams. Like OMG !!!( Sorry use to date a Valley girl) The darn pivot arm was back wards so I reversed it and re installed it, with the spring retainer on the correct side. if you look closely at the arm in my previous post or at a diagram there is a bend in the side that goes to the clutch fork, this makes every thing line up perfectly at this point. Now for the other side of the pivot, It was! too far out on the frame I couldn't get a drill in there so I redrilled the bracket and re installed it off about 1/8th of an inch forward. I can live with this. Crap now the rod from the pedal won't go through the hole in the floor. Every things over 3 inches to the right. now I have to make a new hole, what do I cover this with. While I was getting out my air saws all I looked over at my bench and saw a conduit roof seal it's 4 inches in diameter and looks like a gray shifter boot. Yep, it worked. now for the test. To make along story shorter my wife drives a 89 SHO 5 speed and my clutch in my one ton is easier. I guess the saying from Galaxy Quest is right ' Never Give Up Never Surrender' Thanks for all the feed back and thanks for reading Some times brain dead Reinovator
By the way 2ton's, yes to all of your Questions and thank you for the effort. I still trust the friend I bought this truck from. We all make mistakes. But d*m I should have looked at this years ago. I have a bad back and this was not helping at all it was like a deuce and a half military truck!!!
