I have a closed in drive shaft and am eventualy going to replace the clutch. I have heard it is not to easy to do. I can wrench but not a pro at it does any body have advice on how or possibly a link on how.I have a 50 chev half ton with a 235 thanks for any advice.
If you can wrench, you can replace a clutch. Biggest problem is which tranny do you have? If it is a three speed, you are lucky. The four speeds are monstrously heavy and will require you to remove the top cover with shifter assembly, bolt a chain to the top of the tranny and use an engine hoist through the open door of the cab to lower it to the floor and lift it back into place. The three speed is a lightweight in comparison. It really isn't that hard to change the clutch out with an enclosed driveshaft, no different than any other clutch...it's just an enclosed driveshaft. Our grand poo-bah Nate has the very best description of shimming the ball seal at the back of the trans. I never did an enclosed driveshaft before I had this truck and after following Nate's advise, it went really easy. First and foremost, DO NOT DISCARD YOUR OLD CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE, THROWOUT BEARING OR GIVE IT TO THE REBUILDER BEFORE YOU HAVE YOUR NEW ASSEMBLY IN PLACE AND WORKING PROPERLY. You just NEVER know. So, what kind of tranny do you have? Someone else asked this same question recently and I provided a very detailed descriptionn of how I did mine. You can search the archives for it as well as Nate's ball seal procedure. The factory shop manual is a good thing to have as well. Don't worry. You can do it. We have faith in you. Plus, how cool will it be if you do it yourself anyway? Andy
Okay ron, Here's a couple of links to the threads to help you out. Good luck. It's really a pretty cool thing to do. Get a shop manual BTW. It will show EXACT locations of application of the moly-based grease you need to put on the throwout bearing. Also, you should replace the pilot bushing (using the "grease" method) while doing this job and check the ring gear for flat spots from previous owners grinding the starter. Ring gears can be had and are easily replaced by a competant shop or you can have them taken off and rotated as per Nate's sugggestion and procedure. Any other questions, just ask. Oh yeah, "grease" method for removal of pilot bushing entails packing the entire cavity with grease getting a bolt that fits the hole in the pilot bushing, wrapping it with duct tape to get a snug (but not tight) fit and whacking it with your BFH. The hydraulic pressure will force the pilot bushing out with little effort. Put your new pilot bushing in the freezer overnight and it will install easier. Use the back end of a socket to tap it onto place. Andy https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=7332&highlight=tranny https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=7341&highlight=tranny
What Andy Said PLEASE take some time and research older threads on this job , it's basic and simple *but* you must follow the correct steps and procedeures ! . print 'em out and keep on the seat or in the bed for referance as you're working . Have a helper ! that big Muncie SM420 tranny is a killer and it'll tip over and slip off the jack , crushing your hand or worse ~ there's a story about just that in these pages . I used to do this alone when I was 18 but now I wouldn't . the Torque Tube is movable both up and down once the U-Joint has been unbolted so you can work around it . Clean everything underneath the truck before you begin and DON'T work over gravel or grass as there's little parts you'll loose . Take your time and you'll be rewarded with a nice smooth clutch that's softer than most new cars and will outlast you to boot . Tranny , U-Joint and final drive all fill with 90W gear oil , or 85W-90 , I use synthetic , yet it drips a bit but the truck is made that way . SAVE the leather ring on the ball ! it's unobtanium and works far better than the modern replacement , don't kink it , lay it in a dish of new oil whilst you're working on the clutch .
