Hey gang, My friends are coming up this weekend to help install all my new clutch parts, pressure plate, etc, and then re-install the trannie they took out a few weeks ago. We are wondering what the torque values would be for bolting up the clutch parts and especially the transmission. Do any of you know these, or can you direct me to where they are? Thanks in advance Eric
The shop manual does not specify any torque values for attaching the pressure plate to the flywheel. It is important to install all the pressure plate bolts hand tight only at first and to evenly tighten each one down a little at a time. Tighten one bolt just a coupla turns, then go to the bolt on the opposite side of the flywheel and tighten that one a coupla turns. Then go to the adjacent bolt and tighten it a coupla turns. Then go to the one oposite THAT one and do the same, etc. and so on until all bolts are tightened securely and EVENLY. This will prevent warping or bending of the pressure plate as you tighten it down (a bad thing). As far as the tranny is concerned, you will have to get a couple of spare bolts the same size as the tranny bolts you have and cut the heads off of them. You will install these newly made guide pins in the upper bolt holes of the bell housing in place of the transmission bolts. Make sure that the pins are cut to the right length. They need to be long enough to guide the trans into place and short enough so they can be backed off out of the transmission mounting flange without hitting the casting of the 4-speed after it is in place. The one to watch out for as far as length is concerned is the top guide pin on the passenger side. These "guide pins" will provide support to the transmission so that the weight of the transmission (MONSTROUSLY heavy) will not cause the input shaft to put undue pressure on the clutch disc and bend/warp/damage it. Use a lift from inside the cab to lift the trans off the floor of the shop and into place, guiding it onto the pins that you placed in the upper bolt holes of the bell housing. Once the trans input shaft finally seats into the pilot bushing in the crankshaft (it can be a little tough to get it to do that), bolt up the bottom bolts of the trans through the bell housing flange into the transmission and "tighten securely" (according to shop manual no torque limits here either). Then remove guide pins from the upper bolt holes in the bell housing through the trans mounting flanges on either side, install trans bolts and tighten securely. Pictures below show the location of the guide pins on the driver side, location of guide pin on passenger side and the trans casting you have to look out for as far as length of pin is concerned and clearance. Also attached is picture of the driver side guide pin which measures 3 7/8" long. Couldn't find the passenger side one, but it will have to be significantly shorter (I seem to remember it being about 2" long give or take) to clear the obstruction/casting with the arrow upon removal after installation of the trans. BTW, in the last picture, you can JUST make out the guide pin on the driver side under the custom protective trans cover. Get all that? Buy a shop manual and an assembly manual. Invaluable tools. Also, when I got my clutch kit from my clutch guy, the throwout bearing came in a plastic bag with the grease packed into the groove where the throwout fork rides on it and in the recess inside the bearing collar where it slides on the input shaft. If you need more info on that, just ask and I'll scan the page and post it. If you're really nice, I can sell you (at a significantly reduced price) the custom prophylactive protective trans cover seen in the last photo. It will prevent falling debris from entering into your tranny which may cause premature failure (sounds like a disease, doesn't it?) It is made out of flexible space-age cellulose fiber material and can be had for a small fee (plus shipping to your zip code of course) Peace of mind can be bought after all. Proper installation of the ball seal on the torque tube to transmission can be searched on this site as Nate has done the best job of describing that one. Andy
Very Good Job There ! ...Andy ! Eric ; If you research Andy's older posts you'll see why it is important to properly support the tranny , it's a heavy sucker , being made of cast iron and all that , Andy's rolled off the jack and nearly chopped his thumb off.... As to how tight the clutch bolts ,I just whack the end of the ratchet with the ball of my fist.... kinda vauge I know but after a few of these jobs you sort of learn the " feel " of proper torque . Those big old tranny to bell housing bolts , I put both feet against the frame and pull for all I'm worht , they gotta be seriously tight .
