Cleaning up the cowl vent area and looking at the vent gasket. Does it install the way it is in the picture? Or is it upside down? Haasman
Cowl vent gasket mount. The gasket wich is shown in picture nr. 1 is the right posistion. NB NB. Look underneath the place where the old gasket whas mounted for rust sposts. Incase use some 2 componant steel to repair the tiny holes. Let it dry in 24 hours and clean with a vacumecleaner and dry thouroughly then use anough of a fast drying black adhesive and put it rich on gasket. Put the gasket in position, work fast before the adhesive dryes and then the jobb is done. Next day ;Then look at the cowl vent mecanism and see if everything works smooth as it should. Use some coppergrease to keep long lasting gliding there where its needed. I love coppergrease. Remember its dark iside while working underneath the dashboard of your the truck , using a good working spotlight is allways great to have. Before mounting the cowl vent aircover in posision ask some friends to help you out to press the cover down on top of the gasket by handforce. Before starting with that i `ll recommend you to take the gloveboks out because mounting and tightning will be an more easy job if your not an octopous offcourse, You have been doing a fine job. Next day ask the weather gods fore some rain or simulate some waterballet with your kids and then hope the cowl vent is tight! Good luck. Martinius.
Must be a different type of gasket than Russ used? I went back to his thread and this is what he did. https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=9530&page=4 Give it a look.
Rubber seal type That could be right Zig ! They sell a molded sponce type , and the plain rubber seal wich is the one that Haasman uses. I`ll prefere the plain rubber modell because it closes the vent. cover very well. The molded sponce type is a bit higher wich builds the vent cover higher up. Martinius.
I liked the spongey seal as it seemed to fill and seal the vent better. I used one of the rubber gaskets like that on mine, it doesn't seal all that well. I don't know if the sponge seals any better, it is a difficult design to begin with, explains why our trucks need floor replacement.
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Blueflame Great tips and repair suggestions. I will look for coppergrease. I usually use AntiSeize in areas like that. Zig, that link was very helpful. I forgot seeing that one. I have spent a lot of time cleaning and sanding the channel that the rubber gasket fits in. It now fits so well it will stay seated in place without any cement. I need to paint the area first of course before setting the gasket. I am now thinking that I will fit the gasket as pictured (with the little ridge pointing up) and fit the cowl cover and see how they match. It seems to me the sponge ones don't last that long but do work well if the channel is rough, or not absolutely clean and smooth. I'll update this post when I finish this part of my truck project. Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions and help. Great site. Haasman
Weatherseal adhesive Martinius might have a good point. I used the molded rubber seal, and it leaks. I didn't use adhesive and that could be part of the problem. I need to make sure that the cowel cover is adjusted tight as well.
The floor of the truck was obviously filled with water in some part of its life. Surface rust luckly. Getting a good cowl vent seat would be great. OK, so after pondering all of this last night, I think the small ridge in the picture of the seal, is much easier to compress and make a good seal than the broad side. I will carefully use a striaght edge across the seal prior to gluing to make sure it is as even and level as possible. Additionally, with a helper, I am going shine a light from underneath to see if there are any obvious gaps. First I need to paint the channel area. Haasman
Don't forget~ A leaky windshield rubber will puddle your floor just the same, if not worse. The cowl vent should have a drain that directs overflow out onto your nice hot engine. Granted, in a downpour, even that won't be enough. Did you get this project done yet?
Cowl vent. drain. Most of the rainwater that runs through the vent drain comes directly in your warm engine compartment. Water nearby electricall installations and your starting engine makes me wonder if that is a good solution? No offcourse not ! So you can make a longer drain allmost downbelow the engine bottem to keep the damp away from the engine compartment. Its quite easy to make if you use an extra peace of metal piece of tubing in between , clamp the both ends together and finsh the rubber drain of with some nice clamps screwed onto the chassis. Easy peasy done. Good luck .
Good suggestions about longer drain tube. I have carefully masked the area, sanded and just primed it. I will again carefully sand the area and then hopefully today mask and repaint the area. I cleaned, primed and just painted the whole cowl vent assembly. It is looking great! So far, much to my amazement (poor painting experience) is going well. It does pay to take your time. Pictures shortly. Haasman
OK I cleaned up the channel that holds the gasket. I taped off the entire area around the cowl vent. I folded sandpaper and carefully removed the old paint and rust. I then primed the area and once dry (several days) painted it. I then test-fitted the gasket. I am using the solid rubber one as opposed to the foam. I immediately noticed that certain areas of the channel were slightly higher and narrower that the rubber gasket. ALSO the rubber had left over flashing that wasn't cleaned off when manufactured. I used sandpaper and both removed this and also narrowed the sides and bottom of the rubber gasket. I then rechecked the fit. While working in area, I took care of the unpainted wiper shaft area. The PO when painted the truck simply masked the wiper shaft area instead of removing them. Again I taped, primed and painted the area. Once I have finished the under dash area (de-rust, prime and paint) I will check the final fitment of the cowl vent. While under the dash (sounds like a title to a movie!) I also cleaned the heater air intake area (ahead of the right door, behind the right front wheel) and then installed 1/8" wire screen to keep insects out. Haasman
Looks like you did it up right, Haasman. I'm sure you used more than the tape when you painted the exposed areas. Looks like new windshield rubber as well! Next project???
Nice Work ! Thank you for posting those pix , now others will have a better idea of what's involved....
I am focused on finishing the dash-underneath & driver's side, firewall-both sides and innner fender walls. All sanded, need to finish priming. I will hopefully paint the firewall the same color as the truck. Looking forward to reassembling everything and most especially rewiring it. It was the cracked and shorted wiring that start this whole project. Had a scary night driving home. All the lights when out on a curve. Parked it since and start all this stuff. Haasman
Electrical Fun Been there , done that , moonless night coming down the mountain.... The good thing is : it's dead simple and cheap too .
