Engine In Now Steering Box/Column Questions

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by slugbug, Jan 24, 2007.

  1. slugbug

    slugbug Member

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    Hey all, it's been awhile since I've posted a progress report. Things have been just a little hectic 'round here.

    Anyway, some progress on the truck. Cab corners welded in and the 5.3L engine and 4L60E tranny mocked up and mounted in the truck. Now its obvious that the stock steering box won't allow clearance for the exhaust manifolds.

    Anyone used a different steering box/column for this task? I'm thinking of using one of those 67-72 steering columns with the column shift to make it look at least halfway like it belongs in there. Any thoughts on a steering box that I could use with the original frontend (will most likely be a dropped straight axle in the end)? I'd like to give power steering at least a thought on this truck, tho its not mandatory. I have the brackets and everything for the 5.3L so the box is the only missing piece (yeah, right).

    Thanks for your help! The truck is slowly coming along!

    Andy
     
  2. federale

    federale Member

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    I'm sure its been posted here on the forum before,but you might look into a set of 55-57 exhaust manifolds. AKA "ram's horn" type. These will allow you a lot more clearance than the modern type.
     
  3. Flipper

    Flipper Member

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    The 5.3 is a GEN III. Exhaust ports aren't the same as old faithfull SBCs


    [​IMG]
     
  4. Kevin's 48

    Kevin's 48 Member

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    Good catch flipper. You may see what Borla has to offer. I used to be a vette tech and we put Borla exhaust on alot. Performs great, sounds great, nothing but good things from them. A little pricey, but you pay for what you get. I don't know if they would have anything that would fit a little tighter in your truck or not but worth looking into.

    http://www.borla.com/

    As far as the steering box, I don't know.
     
  5. Flipper

    Flipper Member

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    Build your own! It can be a little frustrating at times, but it is possible.

    I bought a pile of used headers off of ebay with the intent of recycling the bends/tubing/collectors. I intentionally left mine ratty looking, but they could be sanded, smoothed and painted for a more finished look.

    I went "wild" with my design, but they could have been done more "normal" with a lot less effort.

    I have $50 in my whole exhaust (with 3.5" flowmasters)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2007
  6. federale

    federale Member

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    Welp,shows you how much I know about (NEW) stuff.:eek:
     
  7. redvette

    redvette Member

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    Flipper, I was looking at the photo oof your truck and noticed the short power brake unit you had there. Just what did it come off of. I need a short one to fit on a 51 COE. There isn't much room between the hood and the firewall. Thanks, Jim
     
  8. Flipper

    Flipper Member

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    That one is off of the 91 s-10 truck. Its not REAL SMALL. I've seen the ones for street rods that were 8" tall.
     
  9. federale

    federale Member

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    Just a thought,a lot of Chrysler boosters are a smaller than GM too.:confused:
     
  10. jimfitz

    jimfitz Member

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    hi,i moved my sterring box back 4" & you can use a truck hugger style header
    had to cut the same 4" out of column and add to 4" to connecting rod from pitman foward but keep the nice steering i had w/ straight axel and big steering wheel it takes some doing but works fine
     
  11. Zig

    Zig Member

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    I admire you jimfitz! A member since 2005 and only 13 posts! I don't know how you do it! I'd love to see some pics of what you did- I'd also like a little info on how tough it was to cut and piece. I'd really like to keep my big wheel, but only if I can do the work myself. If I have to be a welding tech, then this idea is out before I even start!
    Thanks for your input! You really pick-and-choose!;)
     
  12. jimfitz

    jimfitz Member

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    zig, not to hard to do .take out sterring shaft & cut w/ pipe cutter inner & outter, weld inner back. connecting arm -cut in half added a piece-welded & then sleved it w/ a piece of hard steel pipe got to be good w/ welding.
     
  13. Flipper

    Flipper Member

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    An alternate method of connecting the inner shaft after you cut it, is to grind flats on the shaft to match a double D tube (4 inch piece cut from a late model GM steering sector). Assemble the pieces and then drill for a crossbolts.

    100% mechanical fasterners.
     

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