Oh my, go away for a few days and damn you guys rack up the posts! Ok, need a little help here guys, been e-mailing a supplier over there (wont mention the name patrick, dont worry) and they seem to have gotten bored or something and wont reply, I wanted to buy some engine bearings and cam gears from them but seeing as they cant be bothered to help I cant be bothered to send them my hard earned! Ok here goes, I am using the original crank from my 235 in my e-bay 8 buck engine but i am having trouble identifying block/cranks etc to order correct bearings can anyone help a stupid brit? Crank i want to use marked; 371488 and 140 on centre weight and 1512 stamped on front weight and is ground 20thou under on ends and mains. Bearings from this crank are marked; Mains. CB591 020 Ends. clevite 7 72 77 CB416P 020 engine no this crank is from marked; 0524986F55Z engine block i want to use is marked; 0193340T56X the damaged crank has the same numbers as above good crank and had bearings marked; Mains. clevite 77A1 1/01 010 MB-1724P Ends. F/m hecho en mexico 1950CP STD US Y G I understand there are different year bearings and i need to identify what year to order, and can someone give me a reliable company to order them from? Thanks guys ________ Handjob Massage
Hey Brit- I know it's GMC stuff, but that www.oldgmctrucks.com site has a bunch of block/crank/ etc #s... I don't recall if it was just l-o-n-g motor stuff or small Chevy blocks as well. You might check it just for fun. I'd do it for ya, but I gotta go put a new seal on my mom and dad's toliet- Do I know how to party on the weekend or what?!
Neil, according to my reference material, 0193340T56X is a serial number for a 1956 "Thriftmaster 235" built in the Tonawanda plant. Hope that helps.
Neil, you might want to try Kanter Auto Products. They have all kinds of engine rebuild parts. Their website is www.kanter.com Another place you might try is Egge obsolete motor parts. www.egge.com BTW, i could not come up with anything on that # on your crankshafts. I did see 3701488 as a part # listed in the chevy parts catalog.
Ken, thanks for the input, what chey catalogue did you find the crank no in? trouble is there seems to be a couple of bearing types and im unsure which one i need, at 130 bucks for the mains alone (seems a stupid price for just 3 main bearings) i dont want to buy the wrong ones! ________ Outdoor Japanese
NAPA lists the bearings for $89.95 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=10&SubCatId=9
Thanks Bill, strange but you cant specify bearing size! maybe that price is for std size only ________ Upskirt dancing
O.K. , Ive been off sicker'n a bad dog . 1956 235 means same bearings untill end of production . those Mexican Federal Mogul bearings are O.K. quality , they go into all the new GM engines too . I've been unable to find Fed. Mogul application charts OnLine and that retard on night shift tossed out all my old parts books a couple years ago but just order up a set of .020" mains for a '56 Chebby sedan and you should be good to go... Isn't there a competent machinist near you who can ' Mike ' the crank's bearing journals (mains AND rods) for you ? . BTW : these appear to be good Clevite bearing part 's , : Mains. >CB591< 020 Ends. clevite 7 72 77 >CB416P< 020 They should be available from any good automotive jober by those numbers , maybe ship engine supply place as they went into boats , APU's , AG pumps and so on over the years .
Nate, got my own mic' and the 'original' crank from the truck (which Ken identified as a glide sedan engine) is good to go at 20thou under, not a mark on it but the bearings have picked up some crud and are a little worn, the 8 buck e-bay engine had one bad end bearing where the guy who re-built the lump put an end cap on the wrong way round and its pinched up tight and scored the crank, as it turns out that engine is a thriftmaster truck engine so its 'going back home' lol, with the crank from the sedan nestling inside. Trouble is i tried to order bearings over here but the company got me all mixed up over the different bearings pre 54 and after, engine shops over here just have no experience of anything other than 350 v hate motors, shame, but good ol Ken has been sending me info and made things a lot clearer, cheers ________ Babe cute
Hey Brit, Am I to understand that you are switching cranks from one block to another? If so, I believe you must have the block align bored to accept the new crank if I am not mistaken. Am I wrong on this, anybody? Andy
No you dont need to align bore the block, only if you damage a main bearing badly and it damages the cap or block, or if you have a core shift and the block is out of alignment. as long as the crank is good and the block good, you can chop and change as you wish. ________ CHEAP GLASS BONGS
O.K. , I got it . too bad the mechanic didn't stop the engine right away , you prolly could have polished the bearing journal with some Crocus Cloth and replaced just the one bearing shell , BTDT many times , it's become a forgotton option by most mechanics and too many Machinists want to charge you as much $ as possible to they simply turn (re-grind) the crank any chance they get , what a waste as I see lots of perfectly good Std. cranks get turned to .020" under (or worse , .040" because they have old stock bearings they want to dump) and the last time I checked , no more new cranks were being made... Align bore ~ that's another ca$h cow machine shops over sell Now I'm getting pi$$ed off and it's not even my job.... Anyways , in '55 Chevy decided to stop using the main bearing shims , earlier engine you can have them align bored to eleminate the needs but it's a nice way to ensure " Just So " bearing clearance and longer engine life... It sounds to me like you have it all well in hand . BTW : nothing really wrong with V-ate engines , I just prefer InLine 6 - bangers as they last longer and I'm wierd that way -Nate
Sham about the crank, its border line re-grind but my old original crank is good and should build up nice and loose with some new bearings, i agree Nate, so many machine shops advise you to do unecessary work just so they can bill you for it, over the years i have dismantled engines for restoration jobs and found horror stories inside but they were still running!!! ________ EDSEL FORD SPECIFICATIONS
Bad Crank Re-Grind ? Why ? poor surface ? get some Crocus Cloth & polish it in 90° sections... Too far below spec. ? get some .001" shimstock (or whatever) and lay it behind the bearing shells ~ these are 1930's tech. engines and are made to be " fiddled " into perfection by the On Site Mechanic (that's you bunky ! ) Keep us posted , 'K ? .
too far gone I think the crank is just too bad to go again without a grind, the guy who built the engine put an and cap on that was either not matched to the rod or reversed and it pinched up and gripped the crank, lucky he didnt run it for more than a minute or it would have spun a bearing or thrown a rod, cleaned up the crank on thet journal but it seems to have gone oval by a couple of thou, my old crank and rods are sweet so i will throw them in instead, i prefer a slightly lose engine when i build them up so with new bearings and a polish things shold be okey dokey! ________ Cr250r
Okey dokey??? WHERE did you say you were from? Does the trouble and strife know you talk like that? Andy
