Enging started before?

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by peabo, May 12, 2006.

  1. peabo

    peabo Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2006
    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    North Vancouver, Canada
    Hey All


    I got a 50 chev with a 60 inline 6 in her. Its been in storage for about 20 years and i just brought her out. I pulled the engine and redid all the gaskests and some of the seals. I got it all back together now and i cant get it started. Im not he best with engines but whats up. I know its getting fuel(the filter if full). I checked and im getting spark. I had the disributor out and when i put it back i set it to spark plug one cut it was at top dead center. When the enging was appart i saw the timming gear notches were almost touching. When getting it back together the little indicator by the flywheel was lined up too. Im not sure.

    Can i swap the newer style front end drum brakes(i think 51) to my 50 front end?

    My truck is almost a go. I got a new reconditioned tourque tube. Brakes are all ohauled with a new master cylinder. I just have to bleed them when i get the rr end today. Is there anything else i have to look out for. Im going to be taking it on a big drive back home to vancouver. THe drive is about 1200k. Im getting pretty stoked on driving her.

    jeff
     
  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,666
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    RE: Getting Engine started

    Jeff ;

    Sounds good to me , you might have the engine 180* out of timing , to check , rotate it one full turn untill the ball again lines up with the pointer as the # 1 cylinder intake valve is closng and see if the dist. rotor is pointing at the # 1 spark plug wire...

    I've done this boo-boo a few times , but it's easy to remove the dizzy and give it 1/2 turn , realign the oil pump drive and re-install it and time to the Ball & Pointer .

    Firing order is 1 , 5 , 3 , 6 , 2 , 4

    BTW : remove all the spark plugs so it's easier to turn the engine by hand...

    I'm sure you remembered to re-adjust the valves too ? .

    Does it backfire through the carby or try to start at all ? .

    The 1951 Bendix brakes should be a straight bolt up deal , you'll need everything , backing plates , shoes & hardware , drums and so on .



    -Nate
     
  3. mikesters1950

    mikesters1950 Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2003
    Messages:
    233
    Location:
    Roseville USA
    Jeff, what about the fuel? Is it fresh? If it's old and stale, it needs to be drained and replaced. Otherwise try Nate's ideas. Good luck....Mike
     
  4. peabo

    peabo Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2006
    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    North Vancouver, Canada
    Hey Guys

    Thanks for all the help. Ya the fuel is fresh. I pulled the tank and cleaned it out and put some new gas in. Im almost a hundred precent sure i got the distributor aligned. When i checked the spark plugs for spark some had a real good spark and some had a faint one. I got a buddy comming over that is going to help me out. Would have liked to try on my own but im not up in this.

    I got my new torque tube yesterday. I asked for a 50 and i guess my truck is a late model 50 cus the brakes wernt the same. I think its called bendix? The old torque tube had the brakes with all the springs holding the pads in. My fronts had the brakes with the levers and the pad adjust on the cylinder. I had a spare front end that had the new style with the springs so i bolted that on the front and then put the front old style brakes on the rr. It workes out good cus i now have the better brakes on the front. Its super frustrating when things dont work out but im learning lots.

    thanks for the help guys

    jeff
     
  5. peabo

    peabo Member

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2006
    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    North Vancouver, Canada
    Hey guys

    Got the engine going. It was not enought gas in the tank. I looked like it in the fuel pump but it wasnt enough. My buddy tells me that when i drive for long periods i will have to use a lead additive? Whats up with that? Ive never heard of that before. He said i will burn of the valves. What about using a octane bust to pass a emission test? Is it cool to use that in my engine? Anything else i should know? Im going to be driving it to van in a couple of days. Its about 1200km.

    jeff
     
  6. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,666
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    RE: Fuel Additive

    No , you don't need any lead additive , that's an urban myth , forgeddaboutit .

    Have a nice trip .

    -Nate
     

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