RE: Exh. leak , and changing manofo
Hi Paul ;
Yes , there is a definate ' way ' to approach this job , don't touch those broken off studs without a torch as they'll snap off shorter and cause you some real pain to remove .
My method to removing old rusty header bolts :
Invert the manifold to the studs are sticking _up_ , have a supply of water or new can of penetrant handy and take your gas torch and heat the stud up intill it's cherry red bordering on white hot then kill the flame and instantly quench the hot stud with water or penetrant until it's cool to the touch ~ a glass full of water won't do it ~ the idea is , you expend the stud by heating it then when you rapidly cool it off with the water the bond between the two parts breaks , often you'll hear a tiny ' click ' as it breaks loose , using penetrant is good as it'll draw the penetrant in , I know some guys use parrafin (candles) ~ they claim it works better .
If the stud is broken off flush , drop a large washer over it and weld the washer to the broken stud , the washer will mask it off and prevent you from welding to the manifold . now weld a nut to the washer/stud assy. and then follow the previous method .
DO NOT force it ! it only takes about 50 Lb. Ft. to snap off the ear on the exhaust manifold .
I am glad to hear you're using the alignment sleeves these are very important and are missing 1/2 to 3/4 of the time . they prevent intake leaks more than anything else .
Your cylinder head should have a short locating stud on each end , no nuts used on these two ends . if the end studs have gone missing or have been replaced by bolts , get two studs ans install them then cut them off with 1/2" sticking out of the cylinder head so no one will be tempted to add nuts later , this causes leaks at best and cracked manifolds in extreme cases .
have the special washers and bolts sitting ready on the valve cover (next to the radiator if you have a 216) and offer up the manifold with both hands , wiggle it 'round as necessary until you feel it slip into place over the rings then push it tightly against they cylinder head whilst you install the bolts and washers with your left hand , snug 'em all up gently before relaxing the pressure against the manifold then begin tightening from the center outwards...
If , when it's all installed , you still have an intake leak , you'll have to seperate the two manifolds -or- have the mating surface planed by a machine shop . the bolts holding the two manifolds to-gether may snap off too so consider having it planed if you discover a leak .
I hope this helps , you should _NOT_ need and gasket goop crap in this job .
-Nate
