Exhaust Leak...

Discussion in 'Performance, Engine, and Transmission' started by texascowboy, Apr 4, 2009.

  1. texascowboy

    texascowboy Member

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    :(....I have a Exhuast Leak on my 83, I have a set of headers on it and yes I have the correct gaskets for the headers. The thing keeps leaking from the same spot...if you are facing the front of the truck its on the right side where the power steering pump is at. I have changed the gasket and at first it does fine but, maybe a few days later you can hear the leak again...:(
    Any suggestions?? Thanks in Advance.....:)
     
  2. Pontiac1976

    Pontiac1976 Member

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    Do you have a pic how your headers and power steering set up is hooked up. To try to give you better help or better idea's to try.
     
  3. dado

    dado Member

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    Headers

    Try double gaskets some times headers warp I have had good luck using stock gaskets both mating surfaces must be clean the high end copper gaskets have never ever worked well for me .I hope this helps you .:D
     
  4. texascowboy

    texascowboy Member

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    IM000109.jpg


    here is the best shot I can come up with. As you can see the power steering
    pump connects to the headers...right at the front of the block. I have tried doubling the gaskets but, this doesn't work either.

    it leaks right above the #1 plug .
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2009
  5. Pontiac1976

    Pontiac1976 Member

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    What did you use as a spacer for the bolt for the power steering bracket bolt? It does not look like steel or alum. Have you looked at the header mating surface & block port, to see if that tube opening is nice and smooth? Use a straight edge to see if the area is straight enough. Another thing is to see if the bolts going in but not bottoming out to soon run a tap & die the same size. Some time there is dirt or block casting in it. So you may need to shorten the bolt or put a washer. Back to your power steering spacer if it is made of a something that expands much faster than the bolts and the headers it will help loosen the bolt. So I would check both bolt holes spacer to make sure the fit length are correct, use a good small amount of blue lock tight tread sealer. Oh if the # 1 tube opening has any flaws in the face and you cannot file them out then use a small bead of high heat sealant (red) around the opening. When doubling header gasket use small bead of high heat sealant (red) around all the opening in the middle and on the out sides let it just about dry put them together and finish the job let dry. Or buy the better header gaskets that have this done, if you find it easier.
    I hope this helps
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2010
  6. 66 KUSTOM

    66 KUSTOM Member

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    cut the flange halfway between the pipes, when they warp they wont seal, cutting them relieves the pressure and allows you to bolt the header pipes up flush. DONT cut the gasket thou. this is the way alot of the new factory headers come from the manufacurer to keep from having leak issues.
     
  7. texascowboy

    texascowboy Member

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    the thing that I'm using as a spacer is a piece of pipe with a few washers
    the bolt is plenty long enough its the way the bracket of the power steering
    unit is shaped that makes it so hard to find the right bolt. Anyway its the only way that it will fit.

    Okay are ya'll talking about cutting the header itself{as in the metal} if so wont this make the header {metal} weak?? The headers match the port holes on the block and I went and got sevral different gasket sets and found some that fit the right way{the port holes} but it still leaks .Thanks for all the help.
     
  8. coilover

    coilover Member

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    Try using the red high heat silicone in PLACE of the gasket on this one exhaust port or on the whole header flange. I don't believe in all the miracle additives and snake oil cures but my 37 Buick straight eight exhaust manifold is longer than train smoke and just would not hold a gasket even though it's cast iron and had been surfaced. Used the high heat silicone several years ago and it's still holding fine. This stuff holds by adhesion, not pressure, so both surfaces must be completely clean and oil free. After scraping I brushed mine with a fine brush in an air drill and degreased with lacquer thinner. I then let it cure 24 hours before starting. It stays flexible so the surfaces can move around some without breaking the seal. It would be a $10 cure if it does as well for you. If you try it let us know.
     

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