Question? I know that fender welt is required on the front fender where it attaches to the cowl/cab, but is it supposed to be where the rear fender attaches to the bed side? I've read that it is optional on an AD truck. I think it's a good idea for anti-speak purposes, but is it a required part of the re-assembly process? I know that it was considered a part of the process on chevy cars from from at least 1940 through 1948, but what about trucks? Thoughts? Tailgater, does your truck have welting between the rear fender and bed side? Boop's Dad? on your project trucks? Inquiring minds want to know!!
It's long gone on my '49 m when I finally get a round to re-building the bed , I plan to add some new welting . -Nate
Welting Yep, Ken It's on the project trucks that i've collected, at least what's left of it. I purchased new for the front and back of the Boops truck... WHEN I GET IT! Boy, now that made me feel all better I have notice that some who restore? there old rig bondo in the seams on the rear, I just wonder with the twist and give if they will eventually see cracking? Personally I think it looks better. Part of the reason that I am having the Boops painted in pieces is so later on the paint want come off the welting and look bad. Chrome plated welting is also available which may hold up fine but i have observed on some vehicles where the chrome is coming off the plastic underliner so I'm going with black rubber IF I EVER GET A TRUCK TO WORK ON TB'sD
TB'S D you're right about the flex and the cracking. However if you weld the seam up and then bondo it smooth then it will be less likely to crack. That's my plan on the rear fenders so that they will look like one piece with the bed. Another thing with bondoing cracks like this is to not get carried away with it and get to thick. I think that is where most people mess up. So if you like the look then weld the seam first. Another thought is if you're going to paint the welt then why not rhino line it. That stuff is guarunteed to not come off. Just a thought.
Rhino line Do you mean to put some kind of linning where the welt would go? Yea, I thought about welding and using bondo, the main reason that I didn't is because if the Boop has a booboo I could replace the fender easier than if it was welded into one piece. I'm not going to paint the welt, I will assymble the truck after it gets painted, if it ever does. You fellows are great in the encouragement area, I hope you all know that even though I am discouraged about the paint job, most of the time I'm just kidding about being mad... Just helps to blow off a little steem with those who have or will go through simular situations.... TB'sD
Ken, My truck does have the fender welting and it is black. Welting is one of those things that I think you don't notice even if it is a different color but you do notice if it is painted the same color but starts cracking.. My truck has a whole lot of red on it so I welcome the little touch of black. When the painted put the bedsides on he made the comment, "There's 36 feet of bedside!" Taht is, since he had to work both sides. Bill
By the way, has anyone used Rhino liner on the flat part of the running board? I was thinking about doing this but, I would like some testimonials if there are any. Thanks, Bill
What do you guy's think the Rhino liner will do ? I have the original running boards on mine. They were bead blasted then just painted. Seems to be holding up fine. I have been concerned because they are original so I try not to even step on them unless I have to so anything to help extend there life I am all ears. I will try and call a local guy whom does the Rhino stuff and also Zerbart to see what he thinks.
Hey Steve, why a non-slip surface on runningboards? Obviously, you've never driven your truck in the rain and got to your destination and said: "OK, if I time this just right, i can make it to the door without getting soaked." 99 times out of 100, i've limped to the door, holding the family jewels, because i busted my ass while stepping on the *&^%$#@!@#$%^ wet runningboards and ended up wetter and more sore as a result!
I mean to rhino line the welting. You know the stuff that people put in the beds of their newer trucks. It will last much longer than paint because of the debris that is thrown against it. Just a thought. About rhino lining the running boards it would definately give you much better grip if and when you step on those things. We wouldn't want anybody to have to slam those family jewels (as Ken says) when it's raining outside. BTW Ken my wife thinks I'm crazy now because I'm laughing so hard my stomach hurts after your comment.
I mean to rhino line the welting. You know the stuff that people put in the beds of their newer trucks. It will last much longer than paint because of the debris that is thrown against it. Just a thought. About rhino lining the running boards it would definately give you much better grip if and when you step on those things. We wouldn't want anybody to have to slam those family jewels (as Ken says) when it's raining outside. BTW Ken my wife thinks I'm crazy now because I'm laughing so hard my stomach hurts after your comment.
Here's a couple things we've been doing for years. On the rear fenders to give the almost one piece appearance we put a piece of Saran Wrap, very smoothly, on the area the fender mounts to. Next mix up some bondo with a very small amount of hardener so it doesn't dry real fast and generously "butter" the fender mounting flange. Now bolt it to the bed making sure the bondo squishes out all along the seam. When dried, remove fender and carefully sand to contour. Done this way it makes a very tight seam and since all the filler is on the fender flange and not joining the fender to the bed cracking is not a problem. You can look at a fender done this way by clicking on "big improvement" elsewhere on this page. I have been using a coating on running boards for thirty years, first 3M Shutz with black urethane over it to make it gasoline resistant and now with Rhino coating. Keeps them looking nice and definitely not as slippery. The coating on the 51 GMC is 30 years old and the orange 49 is about 3 years old.
