I am getting closer to painting my ride and I want to paint it a non gloss type of finish. I am looking for a low sheen like a satin finish. I have used dupont based paints. I was told by ther guy behind the counter to just use an industrial type paint the will look low gloss and hold up over time. the next time I went to the paint store some other guy said that I would not be happy with the industrial paint (not as good as the auto type) He says that I should do a base/clear combo,only using a flat clear. I know that there is lots of good painters on this site,what do you'll think I should use??
Depending on the color, I have heard many use tractor paint, It is low sheen and tough. If you go with base/ clear, you can add flattener to the clear, do some test panels to get the formula right. You will have a big color selection, pearls, metallics, etc. The clear will also have UV protectants. Check out eastwood's line of paints.
Thanks ol' chebby, I was hoping you would come through. The guy at the paint store was saying the the industrial/tractor paint was not the same quality paint as auto paint, Do you have any thought on how to evaluate paints. Also, most of the industrial paints don't have hardner-is this correct, so it will take 5-6 hours to skim over/get hard-dry. I have put a lot of time in to getting this truck ready for paint. I would rather do it once and do it right. thanks all steve
I'm certainly no paint expert, but I think your best bet is going with an automotive base/clear, with a flattened clear. Your implement enamels actually can give a pretty nice glossy finish unless flattened as well, but don't offer as many color options. I think I'd go with the base/clear and get the exact color you'd like, then mix in some flattener on the clear. A good paint supplier should be able to help you get what you need...
Lots of guys in this area use a light gray primer and add a toner to it. If the guys at the FLAPS know their paints, they can help you out here.
dupont flattener Dupont sells a a flattener for thier paints. I know with Imron you can add up to 60% to the mix of whatever color is your preference. We use it on planes that have panels replaced but teh insurance company wont pay for a full paint job and we have to "match" the amount of weathering. PPG also hasa similar product which reportedly works better with thier products though I have nto used it personally Bill
I'm not sure if you guys have a O Rallys auto parts there or not but they sell a paint already mixed like the ol skool semi-flat black kit and i think they can mix any color. I herd this thru the grapevine cause when i went to wALL-Mart and bought my semi-flat black (rattle cans 13) the guy in the paint dept told me that. I guess he wasn't much into my idea. ha ha. I keep mine in a garage so it won't fade as fast outside. I would send you a pic. but don't know how to . Good luck!
Thanks for all the ideas. I will look into the base/satin clear. With the satin clear I have read that as the paint wears the finish gets shinier, what do you think. also , you don't rub out the clear--Do you???
There you go~ My first thought was, "rattle rattle"... Good old ratttle cans are hard to beat. Someone scxrathes it, guess what? "rattle rattle".
Yes, as it wears paint will shine up. Think about rubbing on that weathered old hod with your finger.....you can make a shiny place in no time. The finish of paint depends on the drying time.....the longer it takes to dry....the more time the particles have to settle into a nice uniform shine....glossy. The fast dryers flash quickly, leaving a rough, bumpier surface...low gloss to flat. Flatners are basically larger particles that settle in with the smaller normal particles to force a rougher finish. If you look at flat paint under a microscope you could see lots of peaks and valleys. Over time these will get worn down or scratched off and make a more uniform finish....glossier. This is why you should not use flat paint in your house....scuffs are not repairable without repainting.....use satin or eggshell. Never final paint or leave a vehicle in primer, the paint is pourous and lets water through. It will become chalky and actually let rust start under the paint.
Thanks for all the help: Based on what I have learned here and form Hamb . I will spray on a base coat of dark blue,then cover with a clear satin. I think I am supposed to rub out the base with fine sandpaper. then spray the clear over the sanded base. The clear does not get rubbed/polished. As a result of this type of finish over time it will get shinier over time, but how fast does it get shiny. I know this is a difficult to answer,but how do I evaluate how much of the sheen will change over time-Is this answerable?? As I am still building this rig, I assume I will scratch up the paint finish at least once, I am sure more often, is this type of finish harder to touch up than a glossy finish?? Sorry for all the dumb questions, but want to understand all the ramifications before I start.
flat/satin paint "Hot Rod Flatz" sold on e-bay. Ive donea few of my vehicles with it. They have a multitude of colors, and its easy to work with.
You should not need to sand the color coat unless you have runs and such. You run the risk of cutting through the color. The more it is rubbed and washed, the faster it would go to glossier.
