My frame will be back from media blasting soon. Aside from powder coat, what are the success stories out there for other coatings or paint? The wheels and axels haven't been done yet. How should they be done? Thanks, Rick
Don't know which part of the country you live in but we usually epoxy prime and then top coat with what the customer wants. Factory black is semi gloss but many want glossy color matched to the outer paint. Have used POR 15 which is a good product with several drawbacks---no shelf life once opened, not UV resistant, and until recently didn't accept top coating very well. We now have a Model A from England that will get large doses of rust inducing weather. We used the Eastwood rust converter/encapsulator/chassis paint system on it and all looks good so far. It is UV tolerant and top coats well. For regular exposure a good epoxy undercoat followed by a topcoat of your choice works good. Don't use the cheap epoxy and be sure to scuff it good if longer than 24 hours before top coating. Rustoleum is still good but it's fish oil base requires a longer cure out time. If your driving is going to be on all paved roads then any good primer/top coat system will last for years.
Por 15 I've seen this tossed around a few time on this site and I think you're the first to be a straight shooter with it. Ohio/Indiana ate this truck to a point that most wouldn't consider saving. It's going to take a few bucks and patience to get it back on the road again. It was a driver in 91 and has been sitting in the weather since. Lots of work to do. Thanks Evan, for the input. Rick
Rust Treatments Rick ; Evan is a bodyman so listen to what he says . I've heard there's somethjng you can thin out POR15 with , then you can float it in between the riveted parts of the frame where it _will_ begin rusting again unless you float something really thin in there . I don't know if any of you follow the BillyBob Chronicals by Larry Karoke in Fla. but he uses Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and it keeps on rusting through again every two or three years.... I vastly prefer POR15 , if you keep it in pint cans and lay a sheet of Saran Wrap over it before re-fitting the lid , you can re-open it as many times as you wish but you gotta use it up pretty quickly . POR15 is permanent ~ you will never , ever get the droplets off your pristine driveway or garage floor . Ever . Period . So always spread out a trap or plastic sheet before parking the truck where you're going to work with it or forget about ever having sex with SWMBO again . It also is permanent on your skin , you'll just have to wait a few weeks until the spattered skin exfoliates . POR15 no longer has the sunlight fading problem . You can spray it but only in a cheap H.F. paint gun you toss out after use as you'll never get it clean .
Recommendation from Germany http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htm use this for all cars without POR15. It's a special material wich live every time. A long time test at a German University gave this material an A. Attention. it's very critical to use but it's perfect to save our sheet metal
Hammerite I know it's better to use a wire brush -> rust converter -> standard paint to save sheet metal. Hammerite is a combination from simple rust converter and paint. I read this in a technical magazin. It's good enough for a fence but not for long time used cars and trucks.
