I need to replace the front brake cylinders and cannot seem to get the hub off the passenger side front. I have used pb blaster and wacked it with a hammer. any ideas?? Also gonna have to replace a couple of wheel studs because they just spin any ideas on that? This mechanic stuff is gonna kill me...
Assuming 1/2 ton, you might be able to bust off the brake shoe guide pins from the outside of the backing plate. That would either allow more wiggle room or cause the whole mess to bind up so bad you'll never get it apart. Instructions on removing a wheel stud found here under "Wheel Bolt Replacement": http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/gmc/5559mm/5559mm666.html Even though it calls for a press, I have done quite a few with a BIG hammer and proper backing on the other side.
Just had to do this on a 74 chevy rear axle that the adjusters were frozen solid. I whacked them with a BFH, swore, then used my trusty H.F. prybar, moving rou nd and round the drum till I pried it and the brake shoes off in one ringing clatter. I have removed drums with a hammer on the backside, also with 2 prybars.
gonna try it okay I will try the sledge and some heat tonight I hit on it for at least 45 mins last night my arm got tired. LOL
I was taking the brake hub off the rear of a '53 GMC I had just acquired to inspect the brakes and had a hell of a time prying and pounding. I sprayed a little penetrating oil around the studs and was going to let it soak in a bit when I noticed a couple screws, one on each side of the center hub on the face of the brake hub. Long story short, you may want to check for those because it slid right off after I removed the screw.
Remove the whole hub and drum There is some chance that your front drum is riveted to the wheel hub. Try removing the hut and drum, then figure out how to separate these. My 2 cents Jim
You know there are two holes on drum about size of a dime with some paper like substance covering it from underneath side I have to dug that out and also two other spots on the drum that have a bump out on it. The heat and more hitting it last night did not work. Frustrated for sure. I will take a picture of it and post it tonight maybe that will help if you guys can see it. I did put PB Blaster around the studs many times and that didn't work either. I am beginning to think it is hooked together some other way.
wiggle the [;. out of it Have you tried taking the front bearings off...and then wiggle the ppl,l;, out of it...I have done that more than once...remove the whole of the outer bearing....put and sleeve, rag, or something to protect the surfaces and wiggle. rod
6 Lug Brake Drum Removal Karen ; This is a very common problem and you'll get it but , it takes time and often a whole lotta effort . Get a new can of P Blaster or better yet Silikroil from Kano Laboratories in Tenn. and spray around the studs liberally then screw on all 6 lug nuts backwards , just enough 'till they're flush with the threads in the center . Now , spray penetrant liberally again and grab your single jack (short handled 3 ~ 7 # sledge hammer) and begin wailing away at it , begin careful to only strike the drum between the studs ~ the reversed nuts will protect the threads from being ruined when you miss and glance them . You can try a 32 Oz. ballpein hammer but it often doesn't make sufficient vibration , being too light . Vary between long stroke , full arm swings and short close in pounds so your muscles don't knot up too badly too fast , plus the difference in the shock given , will eventually get the " Just Right " harmonic vibration to crack it loose , then the drum will slide right off . It's a real PIA ad yes , there apparently still is the original paper gasket GM put between the hub and drum to reduce the amount of sticking drums . Chevs Of The 40's in Wa. State sells these hard to find paper gaskets as well as the funny shaped lock tabs you're going to be needing soon .
Thanks for the info Nate. After work today I am going to try again. I have sprayed the PB Blaster on the studs several times now to no avail. I am afraid I am gonna crack it by wacking it with the sledge. I did have to use the sledge on the rear to brake it loose. Dang A Mechanic I am not. Will keep U informed.
Stuck Drum Removal The idea of using a Single Jack is : the short handle prevents you from hitting it as hard as you would with a long handled Sledge , the 5 ~ 7 # head still imparts a significant shock to vibrate things loose..... Lots and lots of good penetrant here , no WD-40 crap .
Okay I went to the Amigos de los Punk Rod gathering on Sunday and asked some questions about this hub thing, and those guys were awesome and told me just what I needed to get it off. Gotta take the entire thing apart bearings and all to get the hub off. And glad I did cause it needed greased and new brakes as well. So I took pictures of it before I took it apart and as I was taking it apart so I could get her back together. Ha Ha Ha LOL Here I go .... Wish me luck
Front done Finally done with rebuilding the front brakes all greased up bearings and working perfect. Thanks for all the tips.
Well had to take grease cap , castle nut, bearings and finally the hub off that's how it comes off. Crazy stuff I guess they wanted u to grease up everything as the same time you changed brakes. Really was easy once I knew how it came off.
