Frustrated and ignorant!

[Haasman]

OK, first off I know nothing about paint. I have been trying to paint the firewall area and the cowling area.

I would be ashamed to say how many times I've stripped, re-sanded and re-painted. I just want to put the truck back together and drive it!

First, I am using an acrylic enamel (I believe, and according to the previous owner). One step color green.

I am getting orange peel a lot unless I spray a lot of paint, but then it takes a real long time to cure. Often way too thick.

When painting should it be many coats of really thin sprays?

Will paint always orange peel?

I have been using the Preval spray system which is OK.

I was told that if the paint orange peels I need to thin it. Should I be using Lacquer thinner?

I was also told to use a little bit of hardener. This seems to work. It gives the paint a great gloss.

But, now on the final painting in the cowl area as soon as I started spraying today the paint came out in little droplets that ended up in huge rough orange peel.

Not diluted enough? How much should I dilute?

Thanks for listening to my whining .... any suggestions or tips would really be appreciated about now.

Haasman

 

[vwnate1]

Painting

Wow~

I never come to this forum , sorry I missed your post .

I tried painting a few times & never really got the hang of it .

The newer HVLP paint guns with the paint cup on top are vastly easier to use.

Hardener is mandatory , always .

They make basic " Touch Up " HVLP guns that are very nice to use in firewall, dashboard and door jamb painting .

Did you ever get this done ? .

 

[Haasman]

Instead of painting it .... I tore it apart

Thanks Nate. Got very frustrated as the circle of sheet metal ever expanded in trying to just paint the firewall and then .... the cowl, then etc etc etc.

So, I tore it down to the frame. Took the frame and got it sand blasted and then powdered coated at a friend's place. His requirements of me were: No rush jobs, I'll call you when its ready, come by and jaw a bit every so often and I'll give you a good deal. So I did.

Now I am building it up- The engine and trans got painted and are installed, axels are back in place, just put in shocks. Changed the front brakes to disks with a dual master cylinder.

Which all leads up to of course, painting. But first I've got to either sandblast or soda blast all the old paint off. Debating which one. Think I've found a painter that I'll bring the cab on a dolly to, along with the fenders, doors etc.

The final thing that tipped me over to tearing it down was how many loose fasteners I found. The PO must have casually "restored" it.

Haasman

 

[50 Chevy LS3]

HVLP Paint systems

Most automotive paint stores are formulating paint for HVLP (high volume-low pressure) paint systems due to recent environmental laws. This is because the "greenies" want to reduce v.o.c.'s(volatile organic compounds). This is just a fancy way of saying "thinner". The paint you buy today is simply thicker than you used to get so you can reduce it and spray the older fashioned way, or spray it with the newer hvlp equipment. I personally like the old way because thats the way I'm used to. If you use the modern hvlp gun, you generally need to move faster because you are literally "hoseing it on". I usually spray a light tack coat followed by two fairly heavy finish coats and ALWAYS use hardener with the older method. As for what to thin with,- Enamel always use ENAMEL REDUCER, laquer thinner only for laquer and I use laquer thinner to clean the gun. Remember, painting is very temp. sensitive and there are different reducers for different shop temps. Also ALL WAX and OIL (even the oil in you skin) MUST be removed from you project. WAX, SILICONE or OIL or many other contaminants will cause orange peel. Painting is like so many other things- Its the prep work that makes the difference.
Steve
PS You need a very good air filter system on your air compressor to BE CERTAIN all oil is out of your air supply.

 

[BAM55]

This is assuming you have cleaned surface with wax and grease removal.


You need to set up you gun before painting. The fan shape should be that of a cigar. It is be full in the middle and lighter on the edges. Orange pill is caused by distance, air pressure, and many other things. Your tech sheet will tell you what air pressure you should be shooting at. To set your air pressure put a regulator on the gun. While empty pull the trigger and set the regulater to the desired air pressure. If you have paint in the gun you can pull the trigger about half way and the material will not come out, just the air and set your pressure. Now fill your gun with the correct mixing ratio of paint, reducer, and or harder once again that is on the tech sheet. You can even find tech sheets for paint online. Now you need to setup your gun. Get some masking paper or cardboard so that you can spray on it. What I do is close the fluid tip and open my fan pattern to full. While pointing my gun at the paper I slowly open the fluid tip until I have that cigar shape I was speaking of. It should be full in the middle and light and even on the edges.

Like this

Now technique is important you gun should follow the shape of the panel. Do not bend your wrist to make a contour move the gun the shape of the contour are you will be misting instead of laying the paint flat.

I hope this helps, but the only way to do it is to do it.

 

[Haasman]

These are all great suggestions, helpful and informative. Thank you 50 Chevy LS3 an d BAM55.

I realize I am not a painter but should try it. I have some metal that I could practice on.

Haasman