Harmonic Balancer - Can I bead blast it and should I bolt it back on????

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by steve l, Mar 18, 2012.

  1. steve l

    steve l Member

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    Can I bead blast the harmonic balancer if I am careful to not blast the inside of the balancer where it connects to the crankshaft? Then I could paint it up to look new.

    Also would you recommend that when it is re-installed that I tap the crankshaft and install a harmonic balancer bolt on kit similar to this one on eBay:

    http://compare.ebay.com/like/190550675195?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y

    Any opinions on the matter would be greatly appreciated....

    Also I forgot to mention - the engine is just the original 235 which I had rebuilt
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2012
  2. Blueflame236

    Blueflame236 Member

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    Beat blast Harmonic balancer.

    Hey there

    You can beat blast your old balancer without any risks on both sides if needed. Not shore what engine size you have but i would stick to the balancer you allready have if fysicall in order offcourse.

    Martinius.
     
  3. steve l

    steve l Member

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    Thanks Martinius

    I have the original 235 engine.

    Any thoughts as to whether or not I should bolt the original harmonic balancer to the crankshaft by tapping the crankshaft and installing a balancer bolt on kit?
     
  4. Blueflame236

    Blueflame236 Member

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    Bolt on kit ?

    Martinius.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2012
  5. 1 Hotrod

    1 Hotrod Member

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    Tapping the crank for a bolt is not necessary unless your planing on spinning the motor at high rpms or it's not a good snug press fit.
     
  6. steve l

    steve l Member

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    Thanks for the input

    I will just bead blast it, then repaint it without tapping the crankshaft and it should look as good as new.
     
  7. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Bead Blasting

    Just remember to tape over the smooth machined part where the oil seal rides ! .

    If you discover it's bad (rubber falling apart) do not dispair ~just send it off the The Damper Dude , he'll make it like new again affordably .
     
  8. steve l

    steve l Member

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    Nate -

    Thanks for the advice. I will make sure I protect the part where it connects to the crank. How would I know if it is bad? It seems like it is fairly solid and not coming apart. Are there any tell-tale signs that it needs to be rebuilt?
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    If the ring is floppy or the rubber is soft & squishy , it's bad . otherwise it's good to go .
     
  10. steve l

    steve l Member

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    Nate or anyone who knows the answer -

    I have primed the harmonic balancer after bead blasting it. I used a high temp primer assuming that it will get hot as opposed to a self etching primer. The high temp primer says to put the parts in the over first at 200 degrees for 30 min & cool, then at 400 degrees for 30 min & cool, and lastly at 600 degrees for 30 min. If the rubber in the harmonic balancer is indeed actual rubber it should be able to withstand those kind of temperatures. Do you know 100% if it is rubber within the inside of the harmonic balancer? Or do you think it might be some sort of composite with plastic mixed in? If so, it would not take that kind of heat too well.
     
  11. coilover

    coilover Member

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    The rubber in your dampener is likely neoprene since it is the most oil resistant. Neoprene can tolerate a temperature of about -40F to +235F. Google temp range of neoprene rubber to get more precise specs but 400 is going to melt it and 600 vaporize it I'm afraid. I'd sure check this out before popping it in the oven. Dampeners definitely do NOT need any higher temp paint than plain old engine paint.
     
  12. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Hot !

    Too dang hot IMO ;

    I oven bake a lot of parts and I never exceed 200° F .
     

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