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Headlight terminal blocks

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Limey Trucker

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Hey you guys,

I have a '47 Truck and need to buy some of the original style headlight terminal blocks as the truck didnt have any when she come over here across the pond.

The mounting holes have the same spacing on the left and right inner fender but there is a 3 and 4 terminal block.

Which one do I need guys???? Incidently, the hole spacings are 61mm (yes I know its metric, its just what I grew up with, imagine what I was like when I had to buy 7/16 spanners lol):D
 
you can get them from our host... As to which ones you need 3 or 4 I don't know. I believe i just put new 3 ones on both sides of mine. everything works now so to me its right!!!
 
4 is on the driver's side and 3 is on the passenger side. I am certain that the extra contact is for horn wiring. make sense?
 
Greg, you are correct.

Greg_H said:
4 is on the driver's side and 3 is on the passenger side. I am certain that the extra contact is for horn wiring. make sense?
Click to expand...

The terminal blocks are used to connect the front end lighting. One is for the low beam, one for the high beam, and one for the parking light on each side. When chevy moved the horn from the manifold to the radiator support, they added a 4th terminal to power the horn.
 
Hold on a minute!

But this change (horn placement) did not take place until '54... right?

So Limey's 47 has a 3 lug terminal block on both sides.


Greg
 
Yabutt...

It should have 3 lug terminal blocks on both sides, yes. But remember, the truck is 62 years old and probably has had a few PO's and DPO's:rolleyes: adding their personal touches to it, so anything is possible.
 
Fwiw ;

The direct Metric equivalent to a 7/16" wrench is 11 MM :p

Enjoy that '47 ! is it a '47.1 or '47.2 ? .
 
Do tell~

Guess that's why I love this site! I checked my blocks, and both were 4. As wolf said, "all worked fine..."
I have a wire to each terminal but I didn't take the time to figure out which was which. (again)
I would have bet Ken's paycheck that the driver side had 4, the passenger's side had 3. Nope, 4 on each, and wired as per our host. (Which is where the harness came from.)
Wish I could be of more help, but as long as these other guys are here...:cool:
 
Thanks Guys,

I shall order some immediately.......... Thanks for the metric/ imperial conversion Nate lol :P

Ive no idea if its a 47.1 or .2 what would the differences be ?
 
47.1 v 47.2

The 1941-46 body style was produced during the war years and was extended into the first half of 1947 hence 47.1. In fact you will find the new 1947.2 Advanced Design has many hold overs from the 41-46, such as the torque tube is a little longer on the old 4 speed non-synchro tranny models as in the 41-46's.

I'm convinced that the gray motor paint is left over Navy battleship gray from the war years. I thought all the fellows from Germany, England and scandinavia were finding old surplus military cast-offs, but that is not the case. Volkers truck is a 1941-47.1 model.

Flashlight
 
Terminal Blocks

Some time ago I tired of looking at my 60 year old beat to crap headlight terminal blocks and bought brandy new repops .

Imagine my dissapointment when I next washed the engine and compartment only to discover the fibre part of the repop blocks are in fact cardboard and they dissolved in the water..... :eek: :mad: :(

C'est La Vie .

FWIW ; you can de-rust the original steel screws in a dilute solution of Phosphoric Acid and distilled water , they'll come out looking AS-NEW , you can wire brush the strips of old paint and rust then lightly grease before re-assembly.
 
terminal blocks

Any good marine supply store will have the terminal blocks.They will have
stainless steel or chrome plated brass screws.They are available from one up to twelve connections.They have many uses when wireing a vehicle. Hope this helps.They are made out of bakelite or plastic,not cardboard
 
vwnate1 said:
Some time ago I tired of looking at my 60 year old beat to crap headlight terminal blocks and bought brandy new repops .

Imagine my dissapointment when I next washed the engine and compartment only to discover the fibre part of the repop blocks are in fact cardboard and they dissolved in the water..... :eek: :mad: :(

C'est La Vie .

FWIW ; you can de-rust the original steel screws in a dilute solution of Phosphoric Acid and distilled water , they'll come out looking AS-NEW , you can wire brush the strips of old paint and rust then lightly grease before re-assembly.
Click to expand...
You can soak the screws in white vinegar for a couple of days if you don't have Phosphoric Acid--( maybe vinegar is Phosphoric acid-- forgot all the chemistry I ever learned ) and the rust will brush off easily.
 
Rust Removal

Vinegar works O.K. but allows flash rusting , Phosphoric Acid prevents that .

It's available in the flooring Dept. of Hwe. stores , OSH etc. of @ Wally mart in the housewares Dept. as " Sno-Bol " toilet cleaner and rust stain remover .
 
Ah in that case, its a 47.2 :) a damn sight easier to get spares for over here or maybe anywhere for that matter.

Good to see a new topic has evolved regarding metallurgy :P

Once again thanks for all your help fellas.

P.S. ......I know this is random but Seasick Steve rules !
 
Terminal blocks not covered with cap ?

Hey
The old style terminal blocks (attachment) do not give any good protection against water and are easy to damage. Do they produce them with caps that shutter the condense out? Picture would have been fine!

Regards Martinius

sonny42 said:
Any good marine supply store will have the terminal blocks.They will have
stainless steel or chrome plated brass screws.They are available from one up to twelve connections.They have many uses when wireing a vehicle. Hope this helps.They are made out of bakelite or plastic,not cardboard
Click to expand...
 

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